Farsighted Fly Girl

Peace At Last For Etta James

2012-01-20T19:41:00.000-08:00

The sheer force of passion and pain that pushed through Etta James' voice transcended genres, eras and cultures. She was known as a singer's singer who could sing rock, r&b, blues and jazz with equal ease but Etta earned the title of blues diva long before the term became popular. She believed in the honesty of blues music. I'll never forget when I first saw her perform live in Chicago, she declared, "Blues is life. People who don't like the blues are phony people." That may be a highly generalized statement but that was Etta, she didn't mince words or hold back what she felt. And neither did her music. Her voice could roar with authority, it could purr with sultriness. Whatever she sang, from covers like her signature "At Last" which was a Glen Miller tune, to the songs that she wrote like "I'd Rather Go Blind,", she stamped them with the undercurrent of sass and ache in her voice and made them her own. With four Grammy Awards and inductions into the Blues Hall of Fame and the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, she was widely acknowledged as one of the most influential female singers ever yet she never quite got her due. She lashed out at Beyonce for singing her signature song at the 2009 presidential inauguration because Etta should have been invited to sing it or at least acknowledged for popularizing it. She battled for respect and acknowledgement throughout her 60 year career and in the end, she's being hailed as matriarch of the blues, one of the most unforgettable singers of all time. At last.

Montreal Public Art

2012-01-12T14:36:00.000-08:00

Montreal is an art-loving city. That's part of the European flavor of this town. Museums, art galleries and public art fill every block. But Montreal also hosts lots of theater, fashion, concerts and fashion so you almost need a separate visit just to view the art. Rushing about from place to place, I was amazed at how much art I encountered. My first art encounter was the painting above,which was actually in the press offices for the Montreal Jazz Fest. I was immediately struck by its energy and 80s vibe.

I stopped to snap this sculpture on my way to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. The carvings remind me of Native American art.

I know this just looks like two twirly pipes but it is an art installation, I checked. It sits near the Montreal Harbor and I pondered the pipe and water connection.

Monuments and statues are popular in Montreal. They litter the streets and parks like shiny ornaments. This piece decorates the entrance of a hotel in Old Montreal. I don't know who he is but the surreal shape and squatness of the horse amused me.

This was my favorite. Simple yet profound. I resisted taking a photo of me hugging this art work so I wouldn't obscure the image. I regret that now. What art has caught your fancy during your travels?

Taste Trippin' Part Ocho

2012-01-05T09:56:00.000-08:00

It's the new year and I can't think of a better place to kick it off than Peru. The country that invented ceviche holds a special place in my heart but I quickly discovered other Peruvian dishes to love as well. Stepping into the steaming South American heat is a welcome relief to Chicago winter weather but I had to settle for the cozy warmth of Between Peruvian Cafe. My hubby and I journeyed there for our first dinner with the social dining network, Grub With Us. Between the sultry ambiance, the tasty dishes and the gregarious group of diners, many of whom were Peruvian, it was almost as fun as munching a meal in Lima.

The decor grabbed me as soon as we walked in. The space is covered with crimson walls, sheer curtains over banquettes and interesting lighting as you can see above.

I stared at these quirky chandeliers for quite awhile, trying to figure out what they were made of. They really supplied the restaurant with a sexy, mysterious vibe.

Besides ceviche, the other Peruvian invention I love is the delectable Pisco Sour, on the right. Between Peruvian Cafe actually boasts a pisco bar, with a myriad of combinations. Pisco is a brandy or aguardiente distilled from the white muscat grape. It's the national drink of Peru although Chile claims it as well and there's a furious debate that continues over which country originated the drink. The drink on the left is actually a beer martini that my hubby gulped down. I refused to try it so I can't tell you what it tastes like.

This is the ceviche classico, called the best ceviche in Chicago and I agree totally. It's Leche de Tigre style, with cilantro, red onion, glazed sweet potato and Andean corn. It might look like a simple hodge podge of ingredients but together, they dazzled my taste buds. The mixture of lime with other seasoning just made it so favorable. We ate these with the homemade plantain chips in the first photo. I could have eaten this all night but there were five other dishes to try.

Chupe de Camorones or traditional Peruvian prawn soup was the next course. My shellfish allergy kept me from sampling it but it smelled wonderful and was quickly slurped down by the rest of the group.

The Peruvian version of paella is called arroz con mariscos and it was studded with octopus, squid and shrimp. Salsa Criolla topped it off and it also proved a favorite with my shellfish eating new friends.

I ended up shoveling down lots of this dish, which after the ceviche, was my favorite. It's a stir fry noodle dish with chicken and fresh tomato. It tasted like a Peruvian seasoned pasta dish, which is always a hit with me. I also had a tilapia dish that was okay but not as memorable as Tallarin Saltado, which is what this delicacy is called.

Of course, the best part was dessert and I was actually surprised at how much I liked both of these. I'm not a flan fan but this version on the right, was made with organic quinoa and a rich caramel sauce that made me a believer. The dessert on the left is the Peruvian version of french toast with Picarones honey and vanilla ice cream. Again, it sounds simple but the taste was outstanding. What taste adventures have you tried lately?

Happy Holidays

2011-12-23T15:58:00.000-08:00

May the season bring you joy, peace and the warmth of family and friends. If you're really special (and have some canned mackerel lying around) you might just be granted a visit from Fufu, the Christmas Cat.

The Last Bow For The Barefoot Diva

2011-12-17T20:26:00.000-08:00

Cesaria Evora evoked the longing and melancholy of Cape Verde's morna like no other singer. The island nation of Cape Verde is located miles from the West African coast and centuries of isolation and frequent emigration by the small population helped develop the national music of yearning called morna. Cesaria cradled the nuanced melodies of morna in her supple contralto voice so that no translation was needed. Morna is frequently compared to blues and Cesaria evoked the bearing of a true blues diva. She gained international fame as a hard-drinking, cigarette-smoking, grandmother who always performed barefoot in solidarity with the poor. Her voice is haunting and unforgettable and her legacy will live on through 10 albums, a Grammy and the countless lives that she touched.

Sunset Memories

2011-12-09T16:33:00.000-08:00

Sunset is my favorite time of day. I love the drama of the changing sky and the pretty colors that spread across it. Of course, the best sunsets are always over water so I've compiled some of the most memorable sunsets of my island travels. My all time favorite is this stunning sunset over Hilton Head Island, above. The Spanish moss dripping over the water just ups the dazzling effect.

This sunset is dipping down over Eleuthera in the photo above. The amber and apricot hues over the water and palm trees create a lovely image.

I think this flame-colored sunset over Cozumel is the most striking. It looks like streaks of fire rolling over the water. The fact that I viewed this from a pirate ship seems extremely appropriate.

In Fajardo, Puerto Rico, the slip of rosiness behind the palm tree on the right qualifies as the most delicate sunset. Do you have any sunset (or sunrise) memories from your travels?

Accents and America

2011-11-29T14:37:00.000-08:00

I'm a huge music fan so although I don't follow them every week, I can never resist even scholocky music reality shows like X-Factor. But I was totally thrown off guard last week not by the music but by front runner Melanie Amaro's accent. After two months in the competition, intense emotions finally unleashed her true Virgin Islands accent, which she had covered with a proper American drawl. Fans watched amazed as a heavy Caribbean patois poured out of Melanie's mouth. "This is the real Melanie," she explained when asked about her suddenly transformed speech pattern. The singer had learned to adopt an American accent when people complained that they couldn't understand her. So, like so many immigrants to this country, she felt compelled to blend in and "cater" to American sensibilities. I watched with tears in my eyes because I know the emotional and psychological toll that this embeds on someone's spirit. It's not simply a matter of speech but identity.

Melanie realized that being a staggeringly talented 19-year-old from the tiny island of Tortola, British Virgin Islands, wasn't quite as acceptable as being a 19-year-old from Florida, which is where she moved a few years ago. Lots of fans are saying her accent is cool and it makes her more "interesting." (We won't even get into descriptions of her accent as "Rihanna-esque" because that's the only Caribbean accent Americans know. For the record, Rihanna is from Barbados, the accents aren't the same.) That may be true but the ugly reality is that Melanie would never have been embraced by the American public on the same level if she had started the competition with her accent. Americans do not like the effort it takes to understand a foreign accent. You have to adjust your listening to the cadence of the speaker and that's just too much to be bothered with. Forget the myth of the American Melting Pot, that's just folklore. I have too many friends who just like Melanie, felt compelled to lose their accents as soon as they discovered that Americans hold it against them. Instead of thinking that a person with an accent is most likely bi or multilingual and how beneficial that is, they think of how much easier it would be if everyone spoke the same language. I'm not making this up. The University of Chicago conducted a study that shows that Americans believe people with accents are less credible. So if who you really are isn't considered credible, where does that leave you? It leaves you trying to be someone you aren't. Melanie has acknowledged that now that she's revealed her true self, there's no going back. I'm happy for her. An online gambling website has already predicted that she has the highest odds of winning the X Factor. I just wish the odds of retaining your accent and your identity in America, were higher.

Montreal's Jean Talon Market

2011-11-19T14:54:00.000-08:00

Montreal is a true foodie destination, you won't be able to take more than a few steps without spotting a chic cafe, gourmet restaurant or specialty food shop. This vibrant city entices with lots of flavors and dishes but my most memorable sensory experience was at the legendary Jean Talon Market. Located in the center of Montreal in the landmark Little Italy neighborhood, this colorful and lively market is the biggest outdoor market in North America and the most charming. Opened in 1933, Jean Talon mixes old world character with contemporary style for a shopping experience like no other. Tackling Jean Talon requires fortification so I headed to a nearby Italian bakery beforehand. The dreamy, creamy, cannoli above stopped me in my tracks. Mind you, I don't even like cannoli but I felt compelled to buy some and after one fluffy, crispy, nibble, I can say that I do like cannoli. As long as they are fresh and from Montreal's Little Italy.

Although you can skim the market in an hour, it took me two just to explore some of the over 300 vendors and that's not including tasting all the samples, which is an important part of the Jean Talon experience. The market is brimming with fresh produce but I gravitated toward the more typical Quebecois products like the maple syrup lollipops, above.

I made my way to the locally produced honey in flavors like apple, blueberry and raspberry, above.

These zany plants caught my eye because of prominent signs commanding shoppers not to touch them. Apparently, these plants capture insects with a sticky substance and leave movements and one little tap will stimulate this action . It made me wonder how in the world you are supposed to carry them home.

The fromagerie or cheese shop, is a major part of Montreal culture and they are everywhere at Jean Talon. I sampled mustard with wild mushrooms and fresh goat cheese from the shop above. I topped it off with samples of different varieties of ice wine and then finished with strawberry-cranberry-hibiscus cake. I left with a feeling of visual and gustatory satisfaction that few shopping excursions can deliver.

Avoiding The Inevitable at Orange Hill Beach

2011-11-08T08:07:00.000-08:00

It's November. Which translates as cold in Chicago, which means the imminent arrival of snow, wind and misery. So how do I cope? At the beach, of course. I traveled to Nassau over the weekend and spent hours at the beach soaking up the sun and sea as fortification for six months of freezing temperatures. Orange Hill Beach is a small public beach on the north end of Nassau. Lined with coral and mounds of seaweed, I found the beach charming and mostly untouched. I only shared the beach with seagulls and the odd beach walkers.

The tide was high but the water was warm and soothing. I floated in the waves and then sat on the beach absorbing the serenity.

I snapped pix using the KOLA manual color flash,, a collection of colorful plastic lens that I've been lugging around in my carry on for months but have always forgotten to use. With such a pretty and unfussy landscape, Orange Hill Beach provided the perfect opportunity to try it out. First I used red.

Then the green to offset the turquoise hues of the ocean.

And finally, my favorite rose hue. Which do you like best and what are you doing to prepare for winter weather?

Shave Ice And All That's Nice

2011-10-27T16:59:00.000-07:00

Kaua'i is an island that boasts several taste highlights that are a must for any visitor. You must try Hanalei poi, you must nibble a Pukka Dog and you must sample shave ice. Now JoJo's is the place that will usually top shave ice lists or maybe Halo Halo but I didn't get a chance to go to either. Instead, I was advised to visit Uncle's Shave Ice, a new treat shop in Koloa. Shave ice might look like typical sno cone fodder but it's not. Good shave ice is literally shaved into a fluffy, snow like texture, it shouldn't be crunchy. I tried an ice that was covered with my favorite lillikoi (passion fruit) fl as well as guava syrups. It literally melted on my tongue. The popular Hawaiian style is to fill the bottom of the ice cup with rich, macadamia nut ice cream but I nixed that. I figured I'd be overwhelmed by all the strong flavors. As it was, it took me hours to finish the heady fruity flavors of my shave ice. Yes, it melted but it was still tasty! What was your last memorable travel taste experience?

Kaua'i Mountain Tubing

2011-10-15T07:48:00.000-07:00

Kaua'i is a topographically diverse island filled with gorgeous canyons, lovely beaches and sweeping mountains. You have to experience all of these aspects to really get the complete picture of Kaua'i and one of the most adventurous options is to go mountain tubing. I love mountains and I love being in the water so mountain tubing sounded like a fun, if slightly scary excursion to try. I glimpsed the mountains looming over every place I visited on the island and I figured mountain tubing would be a much easier way to see them up close than hiking them. Kauai Backcountry features the only mountain tubing experience on the gorgeous grounds of the former Lihue Plantation. I not only gained upfront views of Kaua'i's majestic mountains, I witnessed the expertise of the complex irrigation system of tunnels and flumes hand dug over a century ago. That's what I call an adventure.

The tour starts with the tour guide outfitting passengers in headlamps, gloves and tubes. Believe it or not, the trickiest part of the adventure was learning how to feel for the headlamp switch with thick gloves on. You need the lamp in the dark tunnels and I did not want to be floating around in pitch black caverns so I spent extra time perfecting my light switching technique. I also brought my own water shoes which turned out to be a good idea because the area is one of the wettest places in the world and it gets really muddy. Our group jumped into a four-wheel drive jeep and headed through the lush lands to the mountains. The vistas and valleys are spectacular, as you can see from the image above. You really get a sense of connecting with nature. One connection I didn't count on was how frigid the water would be. My booty felt like a Popsicle as I hopped into a ditch on top of the tube and floated until we came to a cave. We were instructed to turn our headlamps on and it was eerie and exciting floating through the dark with glimpses of cave walls and markings left by workers who built the system in 1870, which offered a great historical backdrop. Afterwards, a simple picnic lunch is served in a picturesque valley. It's a three-hour tour that really supplies an engaging view of Kaua'i nature and history.

Hula Kupe'e

2011-10-07T07:16:00.000-07:00

In Kaua'i hula, like all aspects of traditional Hawaiian culture, is taken very seriously. It's not about pretty costumes and elegant moves but about the meaning and purpose behind them. The colors, patterns and style of a dancer's adornments all reflect an aspect of their background and training. For instance, if a dancer is honoring Kane who is symbolized by fresh water, they may wear colors and patterns that imitate water. During the Prince Kuhio Celebration, I was honored to learn how to make kupe'e, which are traditional wrist and ankle adornments that draw attention to graceful hand and feet movements.

The process begins with asking permission from the god of hula before picking the plants. Depending on the hula, there are proper plants that should accompany the song. An array of plants were spread out on a table during the kupe'e workshop. Some plants offer wonderful aromas and some supply sounds. I selected the ones that were easiest to weave into the raffia wristband.

It looks easy but it took me awhile to get the plants to lay in the right direction and provide enough visual interest. Dancers of Hula Kahiko or ancient hula, place a lot of emphasis on kupe'e because their movements are usually more structured, using stiff hands whereas modern hula or Hula Auana, emphasizes graceful hands.

My finished kape'e made me want to bust a few hula moves but that's a whole other post.

Fly in Korean

2011-09-27T16:13:00.000-07:00

Being fly translates into any language. It doesn't matter if you rock an edgy salwar kameez in Mumbai or a hot samba skirt in Sao Paulo, fly is fly. And right now I'm fly in Korean because my current fave t-shirt showcases a cool chick with a Korean phrase, above. Besides the vivid cornflower blue hue and the beautifully hand drawn illustration, what really sold me on this tee was the meaning of that phrase. It says, "everyone's entitled to my opinion"! I had to have it. But Chicago designer Anna Hovet creates a tempting slew of culturally clever, signature tees that had me dizzy with the possibilities. I seriously considered snatching up all of these $30 t-shirts.

This innocent-looking tee above, says "looking for trouble" in Haitian Kreyol. I contemplated this one but since I really don't like attracting trouble, I decided against it.

This one called out to me first. The attitude and the fact that it's in Italian was enough for me.When I found it it says "not all bad girls wear black," it was all over. I wasn't the only one that loved this shirt because it' sold out before I could grab the last one.

This one reminds me of an old school True Romance photo. But that's misleading because the phrase is much cheekier than what you'd find in those magazines. It says "I should come with a warning label" in Portuguese. I love the whole idea behind these culturally diverse designs. I like to think of it as having a truly worldly wardrobe. Have any cultural styles caught your eye recently?

Taste Trippin' Part Seven

2011-09-21T11:52:00.000-07:00

It's that time again. No matter that the sun is still shining in Chicago and the temps haven't dipped to their customarily frigid levels, it's the season to travel to one of my favorite islands. There are very few places that can match Jamaica's stunning beauty but what I love most of all is the island's unparalleled culture. Music and food are the hallmark's of genuine Jamaica culture and I like to envelop myself in both at Chicago's Ja Grill. No, there's no palm trees and there's no lyrical patois floating everywhere but there is ackee and saltfish. The national dish of Jamaica is a savory blend of salted cod and mild ackee fruit, traditionally served for breakfast. The ackee is a delicate, pale yellow,West African fruit that is poisonous until it's fully ripe, which is why I leave it to the experts to cook up one of my favorite dishes in the world. So I grabbed my friends and flew over to Jamaica via JA Grill and spent three hours at their legendary Sunday brunch. With vintage ska music pumping through the color-splashed walls, I immediately ordered the ackee and saltfish, above. Rice and peas, cabbage and plantains round out this meal and you would think that's all I'd need but you would be wrong.

By the time the music switched to Bob Marley classics, Sheila the Bajan Beach Bunny had ordered a plate of curried goat, above. The buffet is all you can eat and requires well-conditioned stamina and pacing. I sampled a bowl of fruit before I started my ackee and saltfish, as well as festival, a slightly sweet cornmeal and flour fritter.

The next dish that we ordered was the curried chicken, with heaping sides of callaloo, a leafy green vegetable also called amaranth and the requisite rice and peas and plantains. I really didn't have any room for any of the curry so I rested and lounged until I regained my energy.

The ital stew pictured above, a creamy mixture of vegetables simmered in coconut milk was tempting so I took two whole spoonfuls before I had to retire eating for the rest of the day. The Beach Bunny wouldn't hear of that until I had ended our munching marathon on the expected sweet note.

The sweetness arrived in the form of fluffy waffles and butter rum syrup. The actual dish consisted of jerk chicken and waffles but there's no way we'd survive that so we settled for a small taste of the waffles with divine butter rum syrup that was strong enough to make me woozy. We stumbled out of the brunch stuffed and satisfied, the only thing missing was a hammock to catch a quick cat nap under the beaming (Chicago) sun.

Homage To Honeyboy

2011-09-08T15:29:00.000-07:00

Last week, the world lost a wonderfully illuminating spirit and the last living link to the Delta blues. David "Honeyboy" Edwards was a legendary musician and beloved Chicago blues icon. There was such wisdom and skill that flowed through his sharply dressed, 96-year-old frame that I felt like he was divinely guided. He is mourned as the last Delta bluesman and the last connection to Robert Johnson, Honeyboy witnessed the "King of the Delta Blues" sip his last drop of poisoned whiskey but he represents so much more than that. I'm still struggling to articulate this devastating loss and what it means to blues in particular and American music in general. As the blues community battles for our heritage and birthright, I believe that Honeyboy will be assisting us. Here is my favorite Honeyboy quote:

"Blues ain’t never going anywhere. It can get slow, but it ain’t going nowhere. You play a low-down dirty shame slow and lonesome, my mama dead, my papa across the sea I ain’t dead but I’m just supposed to be blues. You can take that same blues, make it up-tempo, a shuffle blues, that’s what rock ‘n roll did with it. So blues ain’t going nowhere."

David "Honeyboy" Edwards 1915-2011

My Shark Summit

2011-08-30T11:09:00.000-07:00

The first time I glimpsed the dots bubbling underneath the ocean on the left, I thought I was hallucinating. I had sailed a jerky, sun-scorching hour to get to the whale shark reserve of Isla Contoy on the Yucatan Peninsula and needless to say, I wasn't in the best mental state. The dreaded sea-seasickness had kicked in and I wasn't sure if I was seeing things.

When we set off at the crack of dawn for EcoColors Whale Shark Adventure, I didn't know what to expect. I certainly didn't expect this Mayan warrior above, jumping and waving his talisman on the dock. I think he was wishing us vaya con Dios Americanos estupidos. It did not feel comforting but what did I know?

I was still smiling when I hopped on the boat, excited about this once-in-a lifetime experience. There are only two places you can see whale sharks in the world:Australia and Mexico. And I wasn't going to just see them, I was going to splash down right next to them and snorkel.

By the time we set sail and the ocean rippled and rocked our small boat, I was having tiny second thoughts. Whale sharks are the biggest fish on Earth, averaging 41,50 feet and 47,000 pounds. Maybe it wasn't such a good idea to get all up in their face. Just at that point, the bubbles rose up to reveal a cluster of polka-dotted whale sharks, surrounding our boat. It was almost like they were inviting us to join them.

This baby whale shark floated so close that I could touch him. I slung on my snorkel mask and jumped in, queasy stomach and all. Our naturalist guide led us to a small group of whale sharks, We were instructed not to swim in front of the sharks because their eyes are on the side and they can't see in front. We swam on the side of the speckled fish, which are part of the shark family but are a slow-moving, filter-feeding variety. They eat plankton, microscopic plants and small animals. I was assured that human morsels are not included in their diet, which is a good thing because they swam so close to me that they brushed up against my skin. Although they ballooned out hundreds of feet around me, they weren't menacing but playful, like dolphins. Unlike dolphins, whale sharks are classified as "vulnerable to extinction" on the World Conversation Union's Red List. I'm glad I endured the six-hour adventure, there are only about 2,500 whale sharks in Mexico and I snagged an up close and personal visit with quite a few of them.

Fun in the Sun Without The Burn

2011-08-21T18:21:00.000-07:00

I love the sun. It's no coincidence that much of my traveling takes place in climates where the sun blazes nonstop. Nothing encourages exploration and adventure quite like a sunny day, as long as you're equipped to handle it. Besides sunscreen and sun glasses, I always pack sun hats for any tropical escapade. And by sun hats, I don't mean the geeky safari or outback variety. You can have sun protection and style all in one hat and I have a carefully curated arsenal to prove it. The only problem is that not all fashionable sun hats are crushable and easy to pack so I'm always on the lookout for more. So when I received a review sample of the La Scala Collezione sun hat with SPF 50 sun protection, I was a little excited. I wasn't a lot excited because I was skeptical of the claim that this hat would block 97.5 percent of the sun's ultraviolet rays. With a cute ric-rac design, cotton and polyester fabric and a bendable four-inch brim, this little chapeau just didn't look that powerful. So I took it on the ultimate test--Mexico in the heat of the summer.

There's something about the intense Mexican sun that always scorches me, I don't care how much sunscreen or how many hats that I wear. I have never stepped a toe into Mexico without coming home with some part of my body burned. I wore the La Scala hat in 98 degree heat as I waltzed through Isla Mujeres, dripping in sweat. Guess what? After a total of nine hours in the sun, I wasn't even lightly singed. Very impressive for a hat that's also cute and packable. I wish I could tell you that I finally made it home from Mexico without any sunburn but I can not. The one day I didn't wear the hat, I promptly burned my nose and cheeks (slathered with sunscreen). I probably need to order one of these hats in every color. They cost $30 and can be ordered at womens-hats.com. What are some of your sun protection tips?

Anne's Angst: Raspberry Cordial or Currant Wine

2011-08-10T17:01:00.000-07:00

You can't go many places in Canada and not be greeted with a reference from the classic children's book, set in Canada's Prince Edward Island, Anne of Green Gables. But I was surprised and delighted to spot bottles of raspberry cordial at Montreal's Jean-Talon Market. In a pivotal scene in the book, dramatic Anne serves her best friend Diana huge tumblers full of raspberry cordial. Only it's not zesty raspberry cordial but Marilla's homemade currant wine and Diana stumbles home drunk. Poor Anne is forever banned from seeing her best friend for getting her in such a wicked state. Sipping the fruity drink, I was transported to weeks reading the Anne of Green Gables books as a child and then reliving them with my daughter decades later. Have you ever seen anything that brought you back to your childhood during your travels?

Montreal Circus Arts

2011-08-04T14:22:00.000-07:00

Montreal is a city that vibrates with quirkiness. You'll see evidence of this everywhere from the edgy public art to the funky fashion. I'll have posts on both of those things but another quirky example that really struck me was the prevalence of circus arts. I know that this is the city that birthed Cirque du Soleil but I was caught off guard. My first vision upon entering the acclaimed Montreal Jazz Festival was the pair of hula hoopers, above.

I was just not prepared for this sight or the mimes, stilt walkers and jugglers that I also saw everywhere I turned. I've attended lots of jazz festivals but I've never witnessed any circus performers during them.

By the time I saw these aerialists, I had discovered that Montreal takes its circus arts very seriously. It's treated like any other art form and admittance to the National Circus Performers School Montreal carries as much prestige as entrance into an Ivy League college.

Cirque du Soleil is just the most famous, there are dozens of similar troupes in Montreal and I enjoyed a taste of their dramatic attributes for most of the time that I visited Montreal.

A View From The Top: Montreal's Mount Royal

2011-07-29T08:15:00.000-07:00

Topping 764 feet, Montreal's Mount Royal is the highest point in the city and the best place to grab panoramic views of the city. Bikers, hikers and walkers fill the trails, as this is one of the most popular green spaces in Montreal. The mountain is surrounded by a lovely park landscaped by Frederick Law Olmsted, the same man who designed New York's Central Park.

Just below the mountain is Beaver Lake, a favorite spot for ducks in the summer and ice skaters in the winter. The lush prettiness and great views make Mount Royal a Montreal must see.

Montreal's Mount Royal Tam Tam Festival

2011-07-25T18:55:00.000-07:00

The spirit of Montreal is vibrant and eclectic. It grabs you immediately and inspires you to explore this lovely and complex city. Although Montreal hosts scads of festivals, the one that truly embodies its free-spirited vibe is the Mount Royal Tam Tam Festival or Les Tam Tams Du Mount Royal. Tam Tams is French for drums and you'll see every version of percussion instrument, played by every kind of person at this weekly fest. Held at the foot of the famous Mount Royal, surrounding a statue of Sir George-Etienne Cartier, crowds of revelers, dancers, musicians and party people drum and dance from noon to sunset.

I was really excited to attend the festival and I wasn't disappointed. Even though I go to dozens of festivals every year, the Tams Tams is special. Locals and tourists drop any inhibitions and connect through music. For over 20 years, the festival has unfolded every summer Sunday in Mount Royal Park and I could see the joy that the ritual has created. I witnessed a grandmother in a sari dance with a shirtless teen, I watched a man with a long gray beard whirl around with his dog and I saw girls in ponytails grab tambourines to join a circle of men pounding on Djembe drums. The sun blazed down mercilessly but that didn't stop anybody, it only seemed to supply more energy. Vendors lined up under trees with handmade clothes, jewelry, hats and instruments. With an ice cream cart selling cones and frozen treats, there was no real reason to leave. After three hours, I tore myself away but only because I had a poutine date with Emilie'. The Tam Tam jam represents a quintessential element of Montreal. Check out the energy with this video:

Poutine and Ice Wine

2011-07-19T19:27:00.000-07:00

It's been awhile since I updated my blog because I'm afraid all of Montreal's joie de vivre wore me out! Actually it was the back to back trips three weeks in a row but now I'm back. I have lots of images and experiences rummaging around in my mind and one of the most memorable was sampling poutine. You can not visit Montreal without tasting this quintessential Quebecois dish. It's so much part of local culture that McDonald's even serves it. What is poutine exactly? Well, as you can see from the photo above, it's a gloppy concoction of fries, cheddar cheese curds and gravy. Poutine literally translates to mess in French. Its been popular since the 60s and is served in fine restaurants as well as dives. As a Midwesterner, I'm familiar with the irritating squeak of fresh cheese curds but I 've never had them accompanied by anything but a greasy paper bag. I have to admit, I wasn't so thrilled to try poutine but I was determined to sample the best version I could find. I scoured the menus of every restaurant I passed. I solicited recommendations and I eyed the dozens of poutine versions with a trained eye. The fries are supposed to be crispy, the curds fresh and the gravy rich. Finally after days of research, I joined my French journalist friend Emile' for a late night poutine try out. We plopped down in a non-descript food court and dug in. Or Emilie' dug in. I picked. Slowly. It actually wasn't as bad as it looks. The cheese curds add an interesting texture to the fries and the gravy gives it flavor. It's not something I will hunt down again but it wasn't a bad experience.

On the other hand, ice wine is something I will chase down when ever the opportunity arises. Although they didn't invent it, ice wine has become an iconic Canadian drink and I quickly discovered why. Created by grapes that have frozen on the vine and picked at the coldest point of a winter's night, each grape makes just one drop of ice wine. The fermented juice is extra sweet because the freezing and thawing of the grapes concentrates the sugars and acids. Because ice wine is so painstaking to make, it's an expensive treat. And what a treat. I sipped on the glass for at least a half an hour, trying to make the smooth and fruity nectar last as long as possible. All over Montreal, I spied ice wine made from apples, berries and grapes and I wanted to stash them all into my suitcase. Only the thought of TSA stickiness stopped me but I've since discovered that you can order Canadian ice wine online.

Next Stop: Montreal

2011-06-30T10:00:00.000-07:00

I know I just got back from Mexico and I haven't blogged the details about my whale shark adventure yet but it's coming. In the meantime, I'm off to Montreal to cover the world's largest jazz festival as well as dive into the European charm of this Canadian city. I'll be checking out the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and the Jean-Paul Gaultier exhibit, the legendary Jean -Talon market, Old Montreal, the view from Mount Royal above and the weekly Tam Tam festival as well as all the other sights, sounds and tastes that I can handle. Stay tuned.

My Mexican Menu

2011-06-28T15:42:00.000-07:00

(Warning: do not read on an empty stomach.) Mexico's regional cuisine offers a rich and varied tasting experience, it goes way beyond tacos and Margaritas. One focus of my visit to Playa Mujeres was to document the traditional foods and Villa Del Palmar supplied lots of examples. The state of Quintana Roo, where Playa Mujeres is located, emphasizes seafood from the coast, Mayan cooking techniques and fresh produce. My first sample was tasty Sierra fish tosadas, pictured above. The fish was fresh and the addition of lime and avacado added just the right flavor punch.

Above, mole en pollo features a rich chocolate sauce with chicken, queso quesadillas represent simplicity at its best and barbacoa tostadas provide a zesty version of Mexican barbecued pork.

This plate represents a sampling of all my favorite dishes, above. There's stuffed calabaza or pumpkin, chile relleno or stuffed poblano peppers and pescado veracruzano or grilled fish from Veracruz, Mexico with special spices and sauce.

This is my favorite breakfast, plantano frito or fried plantains, chilliquiles or fried tortillas tossed with cheese, sour cream and a delectable red or green sauce and slices of carambola or starfruit. I drank the green drink juego verde above the plate, about three times a day. It's a lovely blend of nopale a cactus juice, celery, chaya or greens, orange and pineapple juices.

Finally, this drink was offered to me the first day I arrived and I'm afraid it's not really authentically Mexican but it is interesting. It's called Miami Vice and it's a deadly blend of strawberry daiquiri and pina colada. I didn't finish mine but the people who did seemed to be falling off their swings.

A Bed, A Beach and A Swing

2011-06-21T16:20:00.000-07:00

I love the vibrancy of Mexican culture and whenever I visit, I always find a favorite spot to chill out and observe. Typically, it's a local cafe or a bench at a sprawling market. This time, thanks to the beauty of Playa Mujeres and the hospitality of Villa Del Palmar, my hang out was the bed above. Every morning, I sprawled on the cushions and observed the rolling waves and the birds diving for fish. Does that sound a tad lazy? Well, I'll have you know that I did get my exercise in. When I wasn't swimming or strolling the streets with the intense Mexican sun beating down on my head, I was flexing my muscles on a swing.

Yes, the beach Tiki Bar was adorned with swings and I made sure I took full advantage! What's your favorite hang out during your travels?

Next Stop: Playa Mujeres, Mexico

2011-06-14T11:39:00.000-07:00

This week I'll be exploring the pristine sands of Playa Mujeres, Mexico, courtesy of a media trip sponsored by Villa Del Palmar Beach Resort. I've visited this region of the Yucatan Peninsula many times before but I'm excited about trying a new adventure--swimming with whale sharks! Look for my posts next week about the sharks, food and culture.

Hiking and biking through Kaua'i's Koloa Heritage Trail

2011-06-09T10:54:00.000-07:00

Kaua'i is filled with so much history and culture that it can feel overwhelming. If you can look past the stunning vistas and awesome natural wonders, you'll discover the rich heritage of the Hawaiian people. With 10 miles and 5 million years of history, I knew that hiking the Koloa Heritage Trail would be a highlight of my Kaua'i visit. The sites are scattered over the island so it actually took me three days to see most of the monuments. The first was Spouting Horn Park, above. Early Hawaiians called blowhole puhis and an ancient legend chronicles the story of a giant lizard or mo'o that got caught in the puhi, shooting waves skyward as he struggled to escape. You can see the start of the spouting water in the photo above.

I biked to Prince Kuhio's Birthplace & Park, above. The park is a lovely stretch of greenery accented with a pond and a bronze statue that marks Prince Kuhio's birthplace in Koloa.

The Pa'u a Laka or Moir Gardens is celebrated as one of the world's best tropical gardens. Brimming with vivid orchids and a lava rock pond covered with lilly pads, it literally looks like the garden of Eden.

I must admit, the uphill bike ride to Makawehi and Pa'a Dunes was strenuous but well worth it. I hiked to the top of the lithified sand dunes and absorbed the gorgeous panorama of the Kaua'i coastline.

Top 5 Things To Do and See in Chicago

2011-05-31T12:01:00.000-07:00

As a born and raised Chicagoan, I’m pretty persnickety about what passes for essential Chicago tourism. Yes, the Magnificent Mile is pretty but this glitzy stretch crammed with designer shops really doesn’t define the Windy City or its sensibilities. So I’ve compiled a list of the top 5 things that in my opinion, truly reflect Chicago history and attitude.

1. Pizzeria Due: Deep dish Chicago style pizza is an absolute must. You may think you’ve tasted it before but if you’ve never been to Chicago, you’ve never experienced true deep dish pizza. It is dripping with cheese, it weighs about 5 pounds and it neatly reflects brash Chicago style and heavy Midwestern palates. The iconic Pizzeria Uno chain is credited as one of the first to serve the delicacy. Pizzeria Due is just as iconic and is my personal favorite because it’s slightly less crowded than the original.

2. Untouchable Tours: No matter that Al and the most notorious hoodlums are gone, this is a gangster town, always will be. Review the recent mayoral election if you don’t believe me. With guides dubbed ‘Southside” or “Ice Pick”, this is the most entertaining and authentic tour of Chicago gangster landmarks. With shiny spats and Tommy guns in hand, “da guides” will escort you to the site of the St. Valentine’s Day massacre and everywhere in between.

3. Willie Dixon’s Blues Heaven Foundation: This is the home of the blues but you’ll never learn any real blues history at cheesy North side blues joints. At the Blues Heaven Foundation, you’ll view the actual recording studio for Chess Records, hear live blues demonstrations and buy CDs for Chicago blues icons like Muddy Waters, Howlin’ Wolf, Koko Taylor, Chuck Berry and the legendary “father of modern Chicago blues,” Willie Dixon. You’ll learn how blues became rock n’ roll and how the genre informs most contemporary music today.

4. Chicago Cultural Center: In the shadow of sparkling new Millennium Park and the legendary Art Institute of Chicago, the Chicago Cultural Center sometimes gets overlooked but it’s a very regrettable mistake. Boasting the world’s largest stained glass Tiffany dome and gleaming Carrara marble, the cultural center is an architectural marvel in its own right but there’s so much more. Art exhibits, concerts, films, lectures and festivals are presented almost every day of the week and all for free.

5. Chicago Lake Street Bridge: This is another overlooked treasure. It stretches over the Chicago River and offers the most magnificent views of the skyline. This is the only downtown bride that survived the Chicago Fire. It’s rarely as crowded as the Michigan Avenue Bridge so stroll slowly across it and grab a big eyeful of Chicago.

Kaua'i Purple Pie

2011-05-24T10:33:00.000-07:00

Purple has always been my favorite color. To me, everything looks and tastes better when it's purple. So I was thrilled to discover that two Hawaiian staples glow with a lovely violet hue. Poi, or mashed taro root, plays a major part in any truly Hawaiian meal but the Hawaiian sweet potato, called uala, comes in a close second. Also referred to as the Okinawa sweet potato, I saw them grace tables mashed, in soups and my favorite, in a pie.

Growing up, sweet potato pie was the finale for all holiday meals, which was of course, my favorite part. So imagine my excitement when I gazed at my beloved dessert drenched in a vibrant version of my favorite color. I almost forgot to eat it, I was so busy staring at it. The pie was covered in another Hawaiian favorite, haupia or coconut pudding. The flavor was smooth, delicate and only slightly sweet.

Filled with antioxidants, Hawaiian sweet potatoes pack a powerful nutritional punch with a low glycemic index and more antioxidant activity than Vitamin C or E. Basically, this means that downing lots of purple pie is good for you. I think I ate a piece every day I was on Kaua'i and I believe I'm much stronger from it. Either that or the purple has gone to my head...

A Hawaiian Hello

2011-05-12T07:41:00.000-07:00

I was greeted with a variety of expressions when I visited Kaua'i. Besides the famous Aloha, which claims many layers of meaning, from hello to love, I learned that Hawaiians pour a lot of thought into saying hello. It's all about the Aloha spirit, which literally translates to sharing breath and being present in the essence of life. From younger Hawaiians, I heard, Pehea 'oe? which means how are you or what's up? I was also honored with a traditional greeting of gently pressing foreheads together, which threw me off guard initially. Now I understand that according to traditional Hawaiian beliefs, words and bones contain mana or energy and spiritual power. The frontal bone of the forehead represents the true self and pressing your forehead against some else's opens the true self to each other. Most memorably, I was instructed in the Hawaiian "Shaka" greeting by the imitable Dickie Chang, above. Dickie is a popular TV show host and a member of the Kaua'i County Council. He's also an expert on all things Hawaiian , which includes the "Shaka". I vaguely recognized it as a surfer "Hang Ten" symbol but Dickie explained that the pinkie and thumb salute is the original Hawaiian signal for hanging loose and everything being alright. Shaking your pinkie and thumb and adding the phrase, "Shaka, brah!" means you are a totally cool Hawaiian, as President Obama demonstrates, below. Have you picked up any unusual greeting during your travels?

Prince Kuhio Celebration

2011-05-05T16:56:00.000-07:00

The essential element that really attracted me to Kaua'i was its history and culture. Not the legendary beauty. Not the cliffs and canyon. As the oldest of Hawaii's islands, Kaua'i cradles the ancient legacy of Hawaiian culture and traditions and I felt compelled to discover it. The annual Prince Kuhio Celebration, held every March in observance of Prince Kuhio day on March 26, provides one of the best ways to experience Hawaiian heritage personally. Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalaniana'ole Pi'ikoi pictured above, was born in 1871 and was known as the people's prince. He worked to uphold Hawaiian rights and culture after the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown in 1883 . Prince Kuhio was the first Hawaiian elected to the the U.S. Congress and served for 10 years. He also established the Hawaiian Home Commission, which preserved land for native Hawaiians. Although he died in 1922, Prince Kuhio's legacy of preserving traditional Hawaiian practices remains vibrant. The 9-day celebration highlights aspects of Hawaiian food, music, dance, history and rituals.

I attended a royal dinner and Hawaiian fashion contest that featured classic Hawaiian music played on ukele's and traditional dishes including lau lau, which is savory bundles of fish or pork wrapped in taro leaves, poi and haupia or coconut pudding. Besides the special Prince Kuhio drink which was a delightful concoction of coconut and macadamia nut liquor whipped up with cream, coconut and pineapple juice, I most enjoyed the music and the stories that went along with them. Haunani Kaui , a popular singer and musician above, serenaded us the whole night.I learned the words to my favorite Hawaiian song, "Kuu home O Kahaluu" by Jerry Santos, as well as that a true Hawaiian meal will Brok Da Mout or taste really good.

I witnessed many Hawaiian rituals, including royal dances and chants. The dancers above performed a dance that showcased the elegance of a royal performance. The feathered standards are called kahili and represent royal lineage. Red and yellow are the Hawaiian royal colors and they are featured in any royal protocol, which is why the dancers wear long ruby-colored dresses. Their rigid arms are hallmarks of hula kahiko, the ancient hula that differs from the contemporary hula auana, which focuses on undulating hips and expressive arms. Hula kahiko is only performed with chants and percussion.

In Hawaiian culture, elders are respectfully called auntie and uncle. All of the people seated above, are also beloved kahunas or teachers and experts. It can also mean a priest or spiritual leader They all wear fragrant maile leis, or open leis that come from vines that grow at an elevation of 3,000 feet in the Hawaiian islands. A maile lei denotes honor and is the lei of royalty. Uncle Nathan, on the left, passes down the traditions of chanting and traditional dance. He astounded me by chanting all the names of eight generations of his family on his father's side. Auntie Janet, beside him, is noted for teaching ancient salt making techniques as well as a host of other traditions. Auntie Stella is probably the best known kahuna on Kaua'i. Every time I asked about Kaua'i history or culture, her name was the first to be recommended. She helps spearhead the Prince Kuhio Celebration and taught me many things that I'm still absorbing.

Of Pig and Poi

2011-04-23T10:21:00.000-07:00

You can not visit Hawaii and not sample traditional foods like Kalua pig and poi. Food holds a significant place in Hawaiian culture and if you haven't tasted any traditional dishes, then you haven't really been to Hawaii. All luaus or feasts, will supply lots of both of these staples. At the Kaua'i Grand Hyatt Resort, I witnessed an 185-pound pig being carried out for the traditional ceremony, above. The pig was covered in ti leaves and then wrapped in chicken wire before being buried in an imu or pit. Then it was roasted over hot coals for eight hours.

The meat is so tender and moist that it doesn't really need to be cut so the hosts simply pull it off the bone. They offered me a quick taste but since I don't eat meat, I couldn't venture into hog territory but I made up for it with my poi consumption.

Poi is pounded taro root that looks like a lovely lavender pudding, above. The lavender roll was also made with taro. The taro plant is so sacred to Hawaiian culture that it's considered an affront to argue once poi is served. According to Hawaiian custom, it's disrespectful to argue in front of an elder and as the living embodiment of Haloa, the ancient ancestor of the Hawaiian people, taro is technically the elder brother of all Hawaiians. With this kind of significance, I was determined to like poi. However, it is definitely an acquired taste. Average poi tastes sour and the consistency is like paste. The first few times I tried it, I concentrated on the wonderful color (I've never disliked anything purple) and ignored the taste. And then I discovered the revelation of Hanalei Poi. Hanalei Poi is made fresh on Kaua'i and is widely considered the best poi you can eat. I spooned it up and there was no sour taste, just slightly sweet, smooth goodness. I grabbed another bowl and absorbed the deliciousness all over again. My dinner mates smiled with approval but all I could think about was how I could get a tub through security to take home.

Kauai's Feathered Friends

2011-04-13T15:59:00.000-07:00

There are a lot of things that you'll find all over Kaua'i. Rust-colored dirt, the friendly spirit of Aloha and chickens. Chickens prance around the island like they own it and I guess when you consider their numbers and the centuries they have roamed the island, they sort of do. The scientific name is Polynesian waterfowl and they are prettier and more cocky than your average barnyard birds.

It doesn't matter where you go, to the beach, a luau, a parking lot, you will see chickens. Or at least hear the insistent crowing of the roosters. You are advised not to bother them. After I witnessed a gaggle of chickens crow and peck each other in a furious fight, flying into the air and landing on backs with sharp claws, I understood why.

Sometimes you'll spot birds that aren't chickens. You have to keep your eyes peeled because the chickens are so plentiful that all other birds seem to just blend in with them.

Except for peacocks.

There's no way peacocks can blend in and they don't seem to want to. I spotted this beauty at the Smith botanical garden and it's proud loveliness reminded me of Kaua'i itself.

How To Eat A Puka Dog

2011-04-08T07:49:00.000-07:00

Just as you can't journey to New York and not sample a hot dog from a street vendor, you can't possibly visit Kauai and not eat a Puka Dog. It's a requirement. A Puka Dog is a Hawaiian style hot dog and trust me, it doesn't look or taste like any hot dog you've had before. It's a grilled Polish sausage or a veggie dog cradled in a loaf of toasted Hawaiian bread with a hole or "puka" punched into it. The bread is filled with a series of sauces that can make the experience alarmingly messy if you don't know how to handle it. Fortunately, I was given detailed instructions on how to order and eat a Puka Dog.

First of all, just because they suggest a slew of sauces, doesn't mean you have to order them. The first sauce offered is a garlic lemon sauce that I was cautioned to skip to avoid sauce overload. So I did. Next you choose from a series of seven tropical relishes, which is my favorite part. You can choose from an overwhelming selection of mango, pineapple, papaya, coconut, banana, guava or star fruit relish. I went with star fruit because it was the most unusual to me. Then, you pick plain, Dijon or lilikoi mustard. Lilikoi is passion fruit so you know what I went with. Finally, you grab a cup of fresh squeezed lemonade and savor the flavors.

With sea breezes wafting through my hair, I gripped the dog with both hands and took a small bite. Both hands and small bites are essential when eating a Puka Dog if you don't want the sauces squirting everywhere. It's also easier if you wear skimpy clothes because lilikoi mustard wipes off your leg much faster than off your jeans. Overall, the sensation of the sweet star fruit relish mingled with the veggie dog and sharp mustard was delectable. I loved the fresh fruit flavors and the laid back atmosphere.My only problem with Puka Dogs is that they don't supply mainland delivery.

The Wonders of Waimea Canyon

2011-04-04T15:53:00.000-07:00

I'm back and I'm overwhelmed. My experiences in Kauai has altered me on so many levels that I didn't know where to begin with my posts. It has actually taken me a weeks just to mentally shift back from Kauai and more days to decide what would be my first account. In a week of cultural exploration and natural spectacles, there's a lot to choose. So I went with the most dramatic. Waimea Canyon unfolds with such dazzling beauty that it literally snatches your breath away.

It was a long, hour drive from the South Side of Kauai to the West Side, where the canyon stretches 14 miles long, one mile wide and 3,600 feet deep. I wasn't quite prepared when I faced these panoramas of crags and valley gorges, washed in shades of emerald and russet. They don't call it the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" for nothing.

I know these pix look like re-touched post cards or professional shots but I took them with my little Cannon 495. There really isn't much chance of taking bad photos of the canyon unless you get fog or clouds. I'm told that our group was very lucky to get a clear day because rain is inevitable on Kauai.

The views were almost too much to absorb. Every angle offered another perspective, every direction provided more beauty. The spiritual energy, as can be expected, was quite high and I actually became a little dizzy. I now completely understand the phrase, "dizzy with wonder."

Next Stop: Kaua'i

2011-03-17T13:40:00.000-07:00

The red dirt of Kaua'i's gorgeous coastline will be clinging to my feet as I explore the culture and history of Hawaii's oldest island, courtesy of the Kaua'i Visitor's Bureau. I'll be covering the Prince Kuhio Cultural Celebration, a week-long festival in honor of Hawaii's most beloved monarch, who was the last royal heir to the throne at the beginning of the 20th century. I'll also hike through the valleys of the striking Napali Coast pictured above, as well as checking out the Waimea Valley (The Grand Canyon of the Pacific), endangered Hawaiian monk seals at Poipu Beach Park and tracing the Koloa Heritage Trail, including a volcanic cone and sacred heiaus or temples. A tour of the Hanapepe artist colony and mountain tubing will round out my schedule for next week. Stay tuned for posts about my Kaua'i adventures at the end of the month, aloha!

Fly Girl Chic

2011-03-10T16:27:00.000-08:00

The term "Geek Chic" certainly doesn't sound appealing to me but it's the category that the creative folks at Blend Creations use to describe this hot necklace. What's cooler than your own twitter handle necklace? Not much. When I saw the tweets about this piece, I immediately ordered one. I'll be working this necklace on all my trips and meetups. Now if I could just get some cute "tweet bird" earrings to match...

Hangin' With Hurricane Earl

2011-03-04T16:23:00.000-08:00

Visiting Puerto Rico is always exciting but this time we had an unexpected dose of excitement. The day we were scheduled to leave, Hurricane Earl arrived with gusting winds and a vicious downpour. I've experienced many tornadoes but never a hurricane so I was a little dumbstruck. What exactly do you do during a hurricane? Of course, El Conquistador Resort staff is used to dealing with hurricanes so all the electricity was shut off and guests were advised to stay inside. As the palm trees bowed with the powerful winds and buckets of rain puddled everywhere we stepped, we stood in a long line to check out. Dozens of panicked travelers were trying to book early flights to escape Earl but we already had our flight and we didn't worry. We flew safely back home and when we arrived, news shows flashed images of El Conquistador, which was located in the heart of the hurricane, as well as mudslides and flooding on the Eastern side of the island. We had apparently just missed disaster. If I ever meet another hurricane here's what I will do:

*Stay indoors, in the center of a house, away from windows
* Turn off all electricity, including computers
* Stay away from all electrical equipment including phones
* Don't shower or take a bath during the hurricane
*Be aware of the "eye" of the storm, when everything is calm. Worse winds blow from the opposite direction.
*Be alert for tornadoes, which often happen during or after hurricanes
*Stay away from flood waters.

Those tips are courtesy of the American Red Cross an organization that knows a thing or two about handling natural disasters., Have you ever witnessed a hurricane or other disaster while traveling?

Puerto Rico's Taino Culture

2011-02-27T14:45:00.000-08:00

The original inhabitants of the Caribbean region of North America were the Arawak, Taino and Carib native peoples. The Tainos are a subgroup of the Arawaks and are recognized as the founders of the island of Boriken or Puerto Rico. These were the people who offered a peaceful welcome to Columbus in 1493. They didn't know the cruelty and violence that would follow his so-called "discovery" of the land that they had cultivated for centuries. Despite official government pronouncements that the Taino have been killed off by the massacres and slavery that followed in Columbus' wake, they live on. As demonstrated in the photo above by members of the Puerto Rico Folklorico Dance & Culture Cultural Center, Taino traditions, food and names remain strong. Throughout Puerto Rico, town names like Mayaquez, Utuado and Caquas echo the Taino language as do the musical instrument maracas and hamaca or hammock. Legends of Taino warriors, like Hatuey, who organized the battle against the Spanish and who famously replied, when told to repent and go to heaven as they burned him at the stake, "If there are Spaniards in heaven, I'd rather go to hell," remain an important part of Caribbean history. Currently there is a movement to reclaim indigenous recognition for Taino ancestors throughout the Caribbean.

Taking Taino Danser To Palomino Island

2011-02-17T08:02:00.000-08:00

The Tainos were the original inhabitants of Puerto Rico and vestiges of their culture still linger in food, music and names. We hopped on the ferry, Taino Danser, to ride over to the private Palomino Island, owned by El Conquistador Resort.

The 8-minute ferry ride offers glimpses of nearby Vieques and Culebra islands.

Palomino island is 100 acres of unspoiled beaches, crystalline water and lush greenery. My kids required 3-hours straight of splashing in the ocean, until we were all covered in salt and tanner skins. The local cafe provided a relaxing respite of cool drinks and sandwiches but my favorite part was the iguanas and roosters freely roaming through the tables.

This rooster is extremely confident, he didn't seem to consider that perhaps he might wind up on one of the tables he roamed through. I know many places where roosters and iguanas are treated as tasty "bush" meat.

Hiking El Yunque Rain Forest

2011-02-12T11:55:00.000-08:00

Of all of natures wonders, rain forests remain one of my favorites. I love being surrounded by lush greenery and vivid tropical flowers. It's like wading through the Garden of Eden. So I was excited to hike though El Yunque rain forest in Fajardo, Puerto Rico. We started at the Yokahu Tower observation deck, climbing about 100 stairs.

Looking out over the tower, the views were stunning. A canopy of vibrant plants seemed to cradle the sky.

Taking in the mountains, I realized that it wasn't going to be an easy hike. According to Taino legend, the good spirit of Yokahu reined supreme on these mountains, protecting Puerto Rico and its people. I don't know if it was protecting me but lets just say that the 3-hour hike was very strenuous.

Since it's a rain forest, it rained half the time we tread through the trails. I was chilly for awhile and then the sun blazed down and it was hot. We glimpsed chartreuse Puerto Rican parrots and languid streams like the one above.

The highlight was a large waterfall at the end of the trail. People threw off their clothes to cool off under the cascading water. I perched on a rock and absorbed the beauty of El Yunque.

Bob Marley Lives

2011-02-06T18:00:00.000-08:00

Today would be Bob Marley's 66th birthday. This freedom fighter, poet, musician and mystic continues to influence and encourage so many people, in so many ways, that he technically still lives. The video above is for Redemption Song, Bob's analysis of power and peace. It's my favorite Marley song, it also contains my favorite quote, "emancipate yourself from mental slavery/none but ourselves can free our minds."

I'll never forget when I journeyed to Bob's hometown, the tiny fishing village of Nine Mile, in the mountains of the parish of St. Ann. It sounds cliche but I could actually feel a strong, serene, presence. Bob's house has been transformed into a museum and his mausoleum is nearby. If you question the ability for a spirit to live on, I'd visit this lovely place. The video below gives a tiny glimpse of Nine Mile:

Cream Skimming in Puerto Rico

2011-01-31T16:35:00.000-08:00

Continuing with my bird theme, because you know, frigid January temps and piles of snow just make me think of birds. We observed this crafty critter while we were on vacation in Fajardo, Puerto Rico. Notice how he just perches non-chalantly on the creamer's tip. I think he was actually whistling a pretty tune to distract us.

Then he takes a quick glance around. Any humans approaching? Perhaps to claim the abandoned cream? Nope. They're all too busy cramming their faces and soaking up the sun.

The coast is clear. Sipping down the cream, he scores! The bird drained the cup so quick, you would think he was storing it up for his Starbucks habit. Have you observed any funny animal scenes during your travels?

Peter the Barbados Birdman

2011-01-27T20:38:00.000-08:00

My best friend Sheila the Bajan Beach Bunny, travels to Barbados frequently. I have been pushing for her to get a nice oceanfront house so that we can all ditch Chicago and live in the Barbados sunshine but until that happens, she unselfishly supplies me with many tales of laid back Bajan life. A favorite is Peter, the Birdman. A sculptor and painter, Peter in the picture above, carves intricate bird designs out of coconut shells.

His gallery is the pearly-sand beach in front of Amaryllis Hotel in Hastings. Perched in the sand, you'll see delicate lovebirds topping bowls, branches and containers. Peter sits in the sun and creates his art under the shade of palm trees, with waves lapping in the background.

Such a peaceful work setting attracts not just art fans but locals, who lounge on tree stumps, card tables and car hoods to eat lunch, discuss politics or just watch Peter's magic. Visitors can browse through Peter's portfolio, which features photos of his lovebirds in homes all over the world.

With the coconut shell birds swaying in the sea breeze and the turquoise water framing the scene, Peter's art gallery truly looks like a slice of paradise.

Winter Warmth on a Chicago Bears Weekend

2011-01-23T10:07:00.000-08:00

This is a historic Chicago weekend. For the first time since 1941, the Chicago Bears will play the Green Bay Packers in the NFL playoffs. Although I'm not really a sports fan, as a Chicagoan I feel intense allegiance to our teams. Does that mean I'll be at Soldier Field watching the Monsters of the Midway in snow and 5 degree wind chill? Umm, no. What I have been doing is handing out advice to pitiful travelers trying to figure out how to stay warm on a January Chicago Bears weekend.

Besides the obvious, (a real coat not a light jacket or hoodie, a hat to cover your ears, gloves and boots.) I recommend a secret weapon I actually discovered in Door County, Wisconsin. I was snow shoeing in 8 foot drifts and 2 degree temperatures and despite doubled-up insulated gloves, my fingers were cold. My guided offered me a pack of hand warmers. I had seen these stacked up in Chicago drug stores but never took them seriously. Surely, somebody who's never lived through a Chicago winter came up with this scam to squeeze a few dollars from the desperate and freezing. I shook the small, white, packet and placed it in my glove and I was amazed. Warmth oozed from the packet and my hands felt like I had placed them in a warm oven. The heat lasted the entire three hours I was outside.

These non-toxic, air-activated, miracles last 7-hours straight and are for one-time use. I prefer to keep the warmers in my pocket or between layered gloves because they do get really warm. On the same trip, I also discovered toe warmers, which can be shoved in your boots for toasty heat. If you're standing or walking outside during a Chicago winter, hand and toe warmers are essential. The Grabber company also offers foot and body warmers but I've never tried them. Somehow, I think the excitement of watching the Bears trounce the Packers, as they did during that last playoff, will generate enough heat to keep most bodies warm.

A St. Kitts Safari

2011-01-04T14:23:00.000-08:00

There's nothing like seeing a place through the eyes of locals. It's like exploring someone elses's home; only they know the special spots and unusual spaces. That's exactly how I felt on Greg's Safari tour of St. Kitts. A fifth generation Kittitian, Greg revealed the nuances and details of the island that I surely would have missed on my own. The lush scenery above was my view from Greg's Land Rover as we explored the diverse terrain of St. Kitt's interior.

The Land Rover supplied plenty of views as you can see, above. But we also made lots of stops, sampling genips, gazing at guava and starfruit trees and trying to sneak up on goat herds.

Sugar was the main crop for St. Kitts for centuries so there are scads of old plantations left, like this abandoned house above. There were lots of key lime, frangipani and palm trees in the backyard.

One of my favorite parts of the safari was meeting St. Kitts children. This group was eager to take photos and see their images in my digital camera. They were a jolly bunch, cracking jokes and offering advice on where to go next.

Next was the Whytehouse Estate above, a haunted plantation, which I declined to enter. Built in 1600 as a Carmelite nunnery, it was turned into a sugar plantation in the 1700s. Reportedly, two families have left the place because of strange happenings like the piano playing itself and windows opening and closing without a trace of wind. Some people have glimpsed a woman in a white dress walking through the empty house. I didn't want to glimpse anything so I carefully walked around the perimeter.

Sugar mills dot the landscape as a reminder of how significant the industry once was. Sugar production stopped in 2005 but St. Kitts still retains a big emotional connection, which is why the mills and plantations remain.

There is no traffic, stop lights or hurry in St. Kitts. Horns only beep to say hello. During the entire three hour tour across the island, I think we only saw three or four cars moving along the roads. It's a peaceful place and life on St. Kitts is sweet enough to understand why its earned the nickname of Sugar City.

Black Eyed Peas, Greens and New Year's

2011-01-01T10:33:00.000-08:00

It's New Year's Day and for a girl like me, raised on the Southside of Chicago with Creole heritage, that basically means one thing: a heaping meal of black-eyed peas, greens (collards, turnips, mustard) and corn bread. Now gumbo usually accompanied these dishes when I was a child but that's not part of the New Year's requirements. Tradition has it that for a year of prosperity and luck, you must down as much black-eyed peas, greens and cornbread as possible. It tickled me when I strolled into our local grocery store on New Year's Eve and spotted this prominent display pictured above, of back eyed peas and corn bread on sale as soon as I entered. For those not familiar with the custom, it probably looked like a crazy deal designed to get rid of leftover Christmas dinner dishes. But people who follow the tradition know that the peas represent pennies, the greens, dollars and the cornbread, gold. Frankly, I can't stand black-eyed peas and when my mother explained their symbolization years ago, I ditched them in favor of lots of greens and corn bread. Who needs pennies when you can have dollars and gold? What's you new year's tradition?

The Real Spirit of Christmas

2010-12-22T13:20:00.000-08:00

There's a voracious vibe hanging in the air. Eyes flicker with the sentiment of more! more! more! It must be Christmas time. It's difficult to uncover the real, charitable focus of the season under all the materialism but you can find it if you decide not to be distracted by all the other nonsense. I don't enjoy shopping at all but I do get a kick out of choosing gifts from my favorite charities. Instead of trolling through aisles filled with plastic doodads and electronic gadgets, I browsed through vaccines, mosquito nets and water kits for children all over the world. The Unicief Inspired Gift program allows you to purchase these life-saving supplies on behalf of a friend or family member. They also get a card with a photo and description of the gift. I also perused chickens, rabbits, pigs and goats for the perfect present. Women in war torn countries learn to rebuild their lives through animal husbandry, farming and work initiatives provided by Women For Women International.. The Gifts That Give Back program supplies women with gifts of animals, farming tools, and education to help them become self-sufficient. My mom's not a huge fan of animals but she'll like the rabbit that I gave in her honor. In light of the natural disasters that have been hitting all over the planet, I like to make donations to Doctors Without Borders to help out. Their Tribute Donations program allows you to commemorate the holiday or other special occasion with a tribute letter mailed to your person of honor. So if you're still stuck with a gift list at this point, please consider these ideas that capture the real spirit of Christmas.

Sand Dollars, Skeletons and The Season

2010-12-14T16:31:00.000-08:00

I've just finished decorating my Christmas tree, which always inspires me to think about the origins of many of my ornaments. Glittery, beaded, balls from India are favorites, as well as embroidered bells from Italy. But the most unexpected decoration is a pure white sand dollar I got from St. Croix. Sand dollars make elegant Christmas ornaments and are commonly used in coastal areas and the Caribbean. The pretty sand dollar-covered tree above was captured in Eleuthera, with echos of the sea right outside. I never realized that sand dollars are fuzzy sea creatures similar to starfish. The sand dollars that wash ashore are actually skeletons. Decorating a tree with skeletons gives a whole other perception that doesn't quite fit with the holiday season but I still think they're pretty. Will you be decorating with any souvenirs from your travels this season?

Genips and Sea Grapes and Figs, Oh My!

2010-12-07T20:18:00.000-08:00

I love tropical fruit, the more exotic, the better. Whenever I travel to the Caribbean, I make a point of visiting the local markets or vendors for local fruit. In St. Kitts, genips, shown above, are sold on almost every street corner of Basseterre. Genips are like lychees, you peel them and suck out the pulp, around the seed which is slimy and slightly sweet.

Figs are what Kittitians call the miniature bananas pictured above. I don't like bananas but I do enjoy figs, which are sweeter and creamier than the bananas grown in the U.S.

Sea grapes grow on towering trees that tend to grow near the sea. This sweet fruit is also sold by many street vendors in St. Kitts. There's nothing like nibbling on a juicy bunch, as the sun warms your shoulders. Do you have a favorite fruit that you discovered on your travels?

Chocolate Chicago

2010-12-03T10:51:00.000-08:00

I am recovering from a chocolate hangover. Like a love hangover, it has no cure. It all started when I grabbed a Groupon for Chicago Chocolate Tours. Chicago boasts a long candy history and naturally, I'm very familiar with most of it but my husband isn't ( he just likes chocolate, not sugar in all forms). So we signed up for the Gold Coast Chocolate Tour and met are tour guide Jenny, above in the lobby of Bloomingdale's. Even though I possess a serious sweet tooth, I confess that I was not equipped to down pounds and pounds of chocolate over 21/2 hours.

We started at More cupcakes, a tiny gourmet cupcake boutique aimed toward cupcake snobs, which includes me. As you can see from the display above, the shop carries a dazzling array of flavors, including savory versions like maple bacon, goat cheese basil and blue cheese walnut praline.

We sampled a tasting size of the chocolate fudge cupcake that was rich and moist. We planned to head back to stock up on red velvet, salted caramel and passion fruit cupcakes after the tour but little did we know, the thought of more desserts would not be at the top of our lists.

Next, we visited Chicago's only Belgian Bakery, Hendrickx Bread Crafter. We crowded into the kitchen where the owners demonstrated their old world techniques. We tasted fresh bread, chocolate croissants and a raisin and walnut roll that melted in my mouth. I admit, I questioned their sanity when the owners mentioned that they had moved their business from the Bahamas when they tired of the weather but insanity clearly creates amazing baked goods.

The chocolate for the croissants was whipped up from blocks of Belgian chocolate. It was heavenly but the real test of a good bakery? When the kitchen floor is slippery from all the butter used.

When we arrived at Sarah's Pastries, I was feeling a tiny bit of chocolate fatigue. We had also toured Harry & David, where they plied us with chocolate truffles, chocolate and caramel moose mix popcorn, chocolate covered cherries, and a chocolate mouse so adorable, I couldn't bear to eat it. I crammed most of it into my purse because I just didn't have the strength for another bite. At Sarah's, we tasted chocolate peanut butter drops and something else that's a cocoa-covered blur. The cookies above, were so cute but not cute enough to tempt me to eat one. My resolve to taste every sugary morsel offered had disappeared.

When I saw the sparkling Christmas display at Teuscher Swiss Chocolate, I perked up. The chocolates are flown in weekly from Switzerland and since my memories of eating fresh Swiss chocolate everyday in Lucerene remain fresh, I gathered my strength to nibble the champagne truffle, pictured above.

We were instructed to down the truffle in two quick bites, in order to savor the flavor of the Dom Perignon flowing through the chocolate. It was good. I'm sorry I can't offer more details because by that point, my taste buds were starting to protest. I wouldn't have agreed before but there really is such a thing as too much chocolate. My husband lounged on a bench as I gazed glassy eyed, at the decadent chocolate arrangements. We had been defeated by chocolate.

The tour wasn't only about munching chocolate, however. We learned valuable chocolate facts such as, when chocolate was so valuable it was used as currency, pirates would make counterfeit cocoa pods by removing the cocoa and stuffing them with a fake substance! Chicago became a big chocolate center in the 1800s because the frigid climate is perfect for preserving chocolate. Did you know chocolate is a good remedy for coughs? I will be trying that this winter. I selected the Gold Coast tour because I love the landmark architecture. That's the John Hancock building, which used to be one of the world's tallest, rising into the sky above.

With all the chocolate, we did manage to pick out some favorites, mine was the cupcakes but my favorite memory was of these people above. They stood in the cold in front of the historic Water Tower offering free hugs. I watched several children take them up on the offer, while most adults were wary but I thought it was a lovely idea. You can have too much chocolate but you can never have too many hugs.

Touch The Sky on Brimstone Hill

2010-11-19T15:00:00.000-08:00

If you ever visit St. Kitts, it's an official requirement to visit Brimstone Hill Fortress. Not only is it the island's most recognizable landmark, it's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the best place to grab heavenly views.

Constructed between 1690 and 1790, the fortress rises almost 800 feet in the air. Which means you must climb the stone path up to monument, way up on Brimstone Hill. Sturdy shoes are suggested.

The climb is well worth it because beyond the cannons, bastions and citadel, a striking panorama of an impossibly green landscape unfolds. It really looks like you could reach up on your tippy toes and touch a cloud or two.

Most of the fortress is built with volcanic rock. I felt like I heard echoes of the centuries of history stored in those rocks. After decades of being passed between British and French colonialists, the flag of independent St. Kitts finally flies from Brimstone Hill Fortress.

The fortress is the one of the best preserved historical fortifications in all of the Americas. I spent hours exploring the officers quarters, magazine bastions and barracks. High up in the hills, it's easy to be transported into another time and place.

Bush Tea Adventure

2010-11-12T08:48:00.000-08:00

Most Americans down mugs and mugs of coffee everyday but I love tea. Technically, I don't drink the black tea leaves that are commonly considered tea but herbal infusions that are really a collection of herbs, flowers and spices. In the Caribbean, this is called bush tea and I always order a cup on whatever island I visit. There's just nothing like fresh bush tea. In St. Kitts, I ordered a pot at the Spice Mill restaurant and this earned me some surprised looks. Not because it was a hot, 90 degree Kitttitian afternoon but because few Americans know about the joys of bush tea and they didn't expect anyone to order it. After much bustling and questioning, my waitress stepped outside the restaurant and plucked some lemongrass and thyme from the garden. You can see the tips of the plants in the photo above.

I savored the spicy smell when she brought the pot out and sipped on cups and cups for over an hour. Bush tea is typically drunk for medicinal purposes and lemongrass, also called fever grass, is usually prescribed for fevers and colds so that might be another reason I caught the puzzled looks. I wasn't sick but a good pot of bush tea definitely makes me happy. My happiness must have been palpable because when we prepared to leave, I was presented with a bunch of the fresh herbs to take home, pictured above. I was touched by the gesture but I explained that live produce is usually a no no when traveling from country to country. They insisted and I wasn't about to argue so I took the herbs back to my hotel and packed them in a plastic bag, at the bottom of my suitcase.

When I was in the airport, sure enough, my suitcase was chosen to be inspected. I held my breath as the security attendant rummaged through my clothes. He pulled out my box of Off insecticide towelettes. No liquids in that, I explained. He placed it back in my suitcase and closed it. And I flew out of St. Kitts with enough lemongrass to enjoy for months. I'm actually drinking a cup right now.

Red Snapper Redo

2010-10-31T21:18:00.000-07:00

I love red snapper. There's no other fish that inspires the joy and anticipation that this mild, flavorful aquatic dish provides for me. I can not resist ordering fresh red snapper whenever I'm in the Caribbean or Latin America. Served with rice and peas, plantains or yucca, red snapper is the equivalent of a comforting embrace, spiked with bursts of laughter. I have a difficult time ignoring it whenever I see it on any menu so I was faced with a bizarre dilemma in St. Kitts. Every single restaurant I visited for dinner, featured a tempting version of red snapper. So when I sunk my toes into the sands at Mr. X's Shiggedy Shack beach lounge, I just had to order the red snapper grilled with lemon and thyme, above.

When I dipped into the gorgeous, sun-dappled Spice Mill restaurant, I just couldn't ignore the spice-rubbed red snapper, topped with pineapple salsa, above.

When I joined with the gang for dinner at the swanky Blu seafood restaurant at the St. Kitts Marriott above, the steamed red snapper was just calling to me. By the fourth day, I had munched on the tasty fish four days in a row and although I never grow tired of it, I felt that I was missing out on a potentially sensational Kittittian dish by focusing on red snapper. So I forced myself to not order red snapper on my last night in St. Kitts. Part of the problem is that I don't eat red meat or shellfish so my choices just weren't as exciting as red snapper for me. But I did it. Rafael, a gregarious Dominican chef whipped up a special dish just for me. What was it? Another favorite mainstay, pasta. It wasn't very Kittitian but it was good. Do you have a favorite food that you just have to eat during your travels?

The Cool Ruler Ends His Reign

2010-10-26T12:20:00.000-07:00

It doesn't get any better than listening to Gregory Isaacs' smooth vocals on a balmy Jamaican night. His voice glided over lyrics, caressing them gently, like a Caribbean breeze. I first heard him live at a concert in Mandeville, Jamaica and I've been a fan ever since. Decked out in custom-made suits with a fedora tipped rakishly to the side, he earned the name of the Cool Ruler, King of Lover's Rock, which combines the melodies of roots reggae with dancehall riddims. Producing 500 albums over his 40-year career, he won a loyal following not just because of his singing skills but because of the vulnerability he displayed. He battled drug addiction for most of his life, entering rehab, losing teeth, and facing arrest constantly but he always managed to come back, his voice still lovely. Gregory died at 59 yesterday, from lung cancer, refusing any operations. His presence will forever be missed but his music lives on. The video below is of one of my favorite songs, "My Only Lover," which was Gregory's first hit in 1973. Listen to the Wailers band back him in this magical reggae ballad:

Biking in Basseterre

2010-10-18T09:49:00.000-07:00

I'm a punk. I admit it. I love a good travel adventure but in the end, St. Kitts managed to kick my butt. I'm a big biking fan, as my weekly rides on my tricked out, pink Raleigh attests. But I just wasn't prepared for biking in St. Kitts. I trotted out for an early morning ride with my press comrades and quickly crumbled. What could be so tough about biking through a tiny and lovely little island you ask?

Well, for starters, we have the heat. You'll never hear me complain about the sunshine and I adore hot, tropical weather. It's just that, a 95 degree temperature is not all that ideal for bike riding. See the wilted look on my face in the photo above? Notice the sweat glistening on my arms? That was was just the first 3 minutes.

Then we have the gorgeous Basseterre landscape. I was surrounded by verdant green vegetation everywhere I looked. The Caribbean Sea beckoned over the hills. Hills. I somehow had forgotten how hilly St. Kitts is. You can't go two steps without encountering a hill, mountain or volcano. Love climbing them but riding? Let's just say that although I recognize the overall physical value of the escapade, I did not turn down our guide's offer to let me ride in his truck for the remainder of the two-hour ride. The rest of my comrades stayed strong on their bikes and I watched proudly from the window of the truck as their muscles pulsed and the sweat poured.

We rode past the cemetery, which I declined to go through but the backdrop provided a stunning vista.

We rolled past the Government House, residence of the Governor General of St. Kitts. The armed guard allowed me to take a photo but he was serious about guarding the house, as you can gather from his expression.

This is the Government House, where the Governor General was not in residence at the time but that still didn't keep the guards and their guns from guarding it. It's "protocol" we were told.

We rode into downtown Basseterre to the Circus, which is my favorite part. Modeled after London's Piccadilly Circus, St. Kitts British colonial influence is prominently displayed with the bronze Berkeley Memorial Clock and the surrounding roundabout. The ride back uphill was of course treacherous, I felt every steep incline radiating under the seat of the truck.

Sailing St. Kitts Sky Safari

2010-10-12T11:33:00.000-07:00

Zip lines may look like the latest travel torture trend but it appears a lot scarier than it is. Imagine flying above the trees, sharing views with birds and monkeys. You get so captured by the sights that you forget that you're thousands of feet in the air. I've zipped through plenty of rain forests and tree tops but St. Kitts Sky Safari was a slightly different experience.

That's Kelly in the photo above. He helped my group cover our bodies in the pounds of required equipment. Unlike other zip lines, Sky Safari uses a carriage that you actually sit on, making it more comfortable and secure. The first contraption was a bodysuit/harness that would do any super hero proud. This was topped by a helmet and trolley carriage that we toted on our shoulders.

Here, Jody models the sexiness of the entire getup. With Mt. Liamuiga looming ahead of us, we flew through the rain forest at 1,350 feet. The first zip line is dubbed The Boss and it towers 250 feet above the rain forest. That little line was nothing compared to Mango Tango, which measures 1000 feet in the sky. The platform is framed by a massive mango tree, which is where it gets its name. Next there's Brimstone Blast, overlooking the historical Brimstone Hill Fortress and then River Rocker, which sails above Wingfield River.

The two-hour adventure supplied me with gorgeous panoramic views of the entire island. Lush scenery surrounded me everywhere and I felt like I was connected to every aspect of St. Kitts natural elements. It was a beautiful feeling and experience.

Hiking The Himalayas With A Suitable Boy

2010-10-08T11:26:00.000-07:00

I've been away for awhile, immersed in the vivid details of India. The Indian Himalayan mountain ranges are the loftiest in the world and though I've never witnessed them in person, I feel like I have an idea of what it might be like to scale them. At 1474 pages, A Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth, is one of the longest novels of the last century and the longest one -volume offering in the English language. It tops War and Peace and Ulysses in length and in the intimidating heft of the tome, which is saying a lot. A Suitable Boy is exhaustive in its scope of 50s era Indian life, examining everything from politics and castes, to religion and food. I feel like I've spent weeks in India, observing ceremonies, talking with families and learning it's complex history and I'm both enlightened and tired from the experience.

Set in the early 1950s, shortly after the Partition of India and Pakistan and during the first elections after independence, the novel offers insight into the current challenges of the region as well as a well-developed perspective of arranged marriages and extended families. A Suitable Boy chronicles the intertwined lives of four families as well as the search headed by Rupa Mehra to find a suitable husband for her 19-year-old daughter, Lata. Although it has been called a soap opera and the title implies a romantic tale, it is neither. Seth is neither sentimental or melodramatic with his characters and I appreciate that. Of course, I identified with independent-minded, soft-spoken Lata, a college student who longs for the totally unsuitable Kabir, a handsome and poetic suitor who is Muslim and therefore not a good match for her Hindu background. There's also Amit, a glamorous Brahmin who is a celebrated, if whimsical, poet who's also not from the right caste. Instead, her mother chooses Haresh, a socially awkward, gauche shoe-maker who wears flashy shoes 20-years out of style and speaks English with a comical accent. But Haresh is kind and thoughtful and most importantly, the right caste. It's easy to get upset by the rigidly narrow caste system and the unfairness of it all. Lata rebels and fights for her right to choose whom she will marry. However, by the end of the book, I grasped a deeper understanding of how and why the system was adopted and why Rupa refuses to ignore it.

I also gained an in-depth look at Indian classical music, the courtesan lifestyle, land reform and the struggle for Muslim women's rights. Seth didn't use many literary flourishes, the writing is direct and at times pedantic. But he makes up for it with rich detail: the characters love to sip nimbu paani (a drink of fresh lime juice and soda) eat musammis (a sweet orange) plucked from trees and douse themselves in candy-colored dye for the joyful celebration of Holi, the Hindu festival of colors. The only real problem I had with A Suitable Boy is that although Seth provides family trees for the four families, there is no glossary for the hundreds of Indian terms he scatters throughout the book. I not only had to scale the Himalayas during this literary journey but I had to do it with a local phrasebook in my hand. All in all, it's well worth the trip.

Gratitude Kittitian Style

2010-09-28T16:56:00.000-07:00

It's easy to take things for granted. Especially when you have been blessed to live in a place that's filled with tropical lushness and a lovely rolling landscape. I quickly learned that Kittitians are a very thankful people. It's evident from their graciousness, to their eagerness to share their beautiful island. But I was taken aback when I saw this display. Who paints phrases on a house? Apparently, a very thankful Kittitian who was provided with a government-funded home. It wasn't enough for the owner to lovingly deck out the place with sky blue hues and painted roses. They wanted to always remember the source of their good fortune. It made me stop and think about how grateful I was to even be in St. Kitts, admiring the beauty of the island and its people. What are you grateful for?

Reggae Beach and Wilbur The Pig (Island Time Rush Slowly)

2010-09-24T10:55:00.000-07:00

If you haven't figured it out by now, I'm a beach person. Nothing soothes me more than salt water kissing my skin, sand covering my toes and an ocean breeze. St Kitts is blessed with many lovely beaches but the most interesting is Reggae Beach, located on Cockleshell Bay. It's a pretty stretch as you can see above but that's not what makes it memorable.

People flock to Reggae Beach because the Reggae Beach Bar serves the best BBQ ribs on the island. There's also a festive, relaxed vibe that attracts people.

They also come to see Wilbur, the pig. Originally bought for food, the owner of the bar developed an affection for the pig and decided to save him and let him live on the beach. For anyone that's ever read the children's classic Charlotte's Web, you know that naming a pig Wilbur probably means that it will never end up as pork chops on the dinner table.

Wilbur weighs in at 700 pounds and enjoys guzzling beer as well as eating cheeseburgers from the bar. He apparently spends much of his time lazing in the shade. I never saw him even flutter an eye open, even when a dog came over to nudge him.

The beach also shelters an abandoned goat who shares a large cage with his best friend, a monkey.

The monkey loves riding on the goat's back but they moved too fast for me to get that photo.

Reggae Beach Bar promotes the slogan, "island time, rush slowly" and I think it sums up the whole experience. You have no choice but to slow down and adopt island time when faced with a 700 pound pig.

Basseterre Bus Buzz

2010-09-19T18:17:00.000-07:00

Public transportation can be torturous in many bustling meccas but it doesn't appear to be a problem in St. Kitts capital city of Basseterre. You see, the public transportation consists of privately-owned mini buses lovingly painted with slogans and names that reflect the owner's sensibilities. How can you have a rough ride when the bus is emblazoned with "honesty? " I think just watching these moving murals is enough to brighten your day.

I'd hop in this angelic white van just because I believe that its name would bring only good things.

This is my personal favorite, because the heartfelt emotions of this phrase resonates in all cultures.

This flashy display makes me think that the owner is a gregarious extrovert.

The owner's name hovers over the slogan of this bus in a way that suggests that perhaps he's joined the cut-throat competition.

This says a lot about the owner's outlook.

I really like the style of this slogan because whether you're driving a bus or not, you always want to stay in the mix!

Ting With A Sting

2010-09-16T10:05:00.000-07:00

Forget rum punch, in St. Kitts the ideal beach cooler is a refreshing brew of Ting soda with CSR (Cane Spirit Rothschild). After ginger beer, Ting has always been my favorite Caribbean drink. A zesty carbonated grapefruit soda, there's nothing more refreshing under the hot Caribbean sun. When I was at restaurants and on the beach in St. Kitts, 'Ting With A Sting" is all that I heard requested. I know that cane liquor can be dangerously potent so the sting part scared me and I never tried the drink. But I like the way it sounds, like the name of a crucial undercover investigative mission. Are there any drinks that you discovered on your travels that had dazzling names?

Monkeys With Attitude

2010-09-13T08:28:00.000-07:00

Seeing the scads of monkeys that call St. Kitts home was at the top of my to do list when I arrived on the island. You can imagine my excitement when I not only spotted the fast-moving creatures but actually interacted with one. That's Junie on my shoulder. I'd describe him as cute, adorable, sweet. But according to our trusty and lovely guide Lavern, the monkeys on St. Kitts are best described as having attitudes.

Look at the evidence. That's a guava (Lavern's favorite fruit) on the ground. Notice the large bite that has been taken out of it.

Apparently, monkeys routinely roam through guava trees, sampling just one bite of a fruit and throwing the rest to the ground. Lavern is convinced that they don't eat all the fruit because they don't want it. They take just one nibble to spite humans so that they can't have any of the juicy guavas. I think that qualifies as having an attitude.

This is Junie's owner Glen Keith, who's nine-year-old. Junie didn't appear to have an attitude at all but then again, I didn't see him near a guava tree. Monkeys like Junie are part of the Vervet species that have a greenish hue to their fur. They were brought from West Africa by colonials as pets during the 18th century and now they outnumber humans on St. Kitts. I saw glimpses of them every day on the island, scampering across roads and rustling in the trees. They are apparently too smart to come out during the heat of the day, they roam during cool early morning and evening hours. According to this BBC video, they also love to steal fruity alcholic drinks. I never witnessed this but I did see them on the beach while I was clutching exactly that sort of beverage.

Swept Up in Sugar City

2010-09-09T11:41:00.000-07:00

Excitement swirled around my brain when I was scheduled for a press trip to St. Kitts, arranged by St. Kitts Marriott Resort and Diamond PR. I had never been to St. Kitts, didn't know anybody who had but for some reason, I longed to go. Something about this tiny Eastern Caribbean island, the smallest country in the Western Hemisphere, pulled me to it and I had no intentions of resisting. I wasn't shocked that it was love at first sight. I loved the lush landscape, dotted with trees, flowers and abundant vegetation (and scampering monkeys) everywhere I looked.

I loved the rolling hills and gentle slopes, topped by the highest point at 3792 feet on Mt. Liamuiga.

I loved the powdery beaches, blessed with the warm waves of the Caribbean Sea and framed by mountain peaks.

Most of all, I loved the warm-hearted people. St. Kitts might be nicknamed Sugar City for the sugar plantations that dominated its industry for centuries, but I think it also reflects the disposition of the island's people. I was greeted with smiles and invited to stay everywhere I went. Kelly, a fisherman above, insisted that I taste freshly caught fish prepared by local cooks, after just one meeting. Upon my arrival to the island, the customs officer shook his head when he discovered I was staying in St. Kitts a scant few days. "You need to stay longer in St. Kitts." He was right and I plan to remedy the situation as soon as I can.

Rum That Grows On Trees

2010-09-03T13:07:00.000-07:00

You can't touch your toe on a Caribbean island and not be surrounded by rum in a myriad of concoctions and versions. In St. Kitts, you'll find locally produced Brinley's Gold and Belmont Rums but I was quite shocked to discover a rum tree. In the quaint town of Old Road, the oldest village on the island, sits a mango tree laden with bottles and bottles of rum.

I couldn't quite figure what it was as we glided past on the narrow road so we stopped to investigate. Our lovely and all-knowing guide, La Verne explained that drunken men from the adjoining bar hang their empty bottles and locals dubbed it the Rum Tree. I explained the Southern/African tradition of bottle trees and she had never heard of the concept but the connection is clearly still there.

The colorful Lover's Bar above, is where the ritual originates and it looks like just the place to inspire a lot of wild times!

Next Stop: St Kitts and Puerto Rico

2010-08-21T21:12:00.000-07:00

I'm off to St. Kitts and then Puerto Rico and hopefully, I'll be spying lots of the little creatures above. St Kitts is filled with vervet or green monkeys, imported from Africa by the French centuries ago. Today, the monkey population is estimated to be two and half times larger than than human population of St. Kitts and Nevis. I plan to capture some pix of these cute guys as well as kayak, bike and maybe scale Mt. Liamuiga volcano. In Puerto Rico, I'll be spending my family vacation lounging and hiking through El Yunque rain forest on the lovely Boricua island. Look out for pix and posts in September!

A Taste of Harlem Part Two

2010-08-18T09:22:00.000-07:00

(Warning, do not read an empty stomach.) My first visit to Harlem featured the sights and tastes of this legendary neighborhood during the Taste Harlem food and culture tour and I had to re-visit the experience with my husband. The tour includes two and half hours of eating, sight-seeing and historical facts provided by owner Jackie Orange and it is not for the faint-hearted. So many flavors, visions and sounds are packed into the tour that you need a few hours afterwards just to process it all. It kicks off with Amy Ruth's Soul Food restaurant and the requisite chicken and waffles, a dish created in New York during the Harlem Renaissance.

Next, we sampled Senegalese cuisine at Les Ambassades, a chic and popular eatery in the Little Senegal area of Harlem.

Grilled tillapia and couscous was the taste treat and as you can see, it was a whole lot more than just a taste.

Senegalese food is one of my personal favorites so while my husband scarfed down the tillapia, I sipped on my favorite drink, tangy bissap juice, which is called sorrel in the Caribbean and Jamaica agua fresca in Mexico.

Next, we strolled to Tropical Grill Dominican Restaurant although everybody was moving pretty slowly by this point.

We sampled a passion fruit shake (another favorite) with yellow rice and grilled chicken. I actually only sipped on the shake but the food was good, according to my husband.

To top off visits to Lee Lee's bakery for rugelah and stops to view public art, we wound up the tour at Jacob Soul Food restaurant.

Oxtails, collard greens, sweet potatoes and mac n' cheese were the samplings for this spot. I just looked at it, my hubby said it was also all good. I'd like to tell you that we took a nap after all of this but we headed to Central Park to see a performance of Alvin Ailey Dance Theater. Hey, it's New York, sleeping is not allowed.

The Popularity of Pig Feet

2010-08-12T19:32:00.000-07:00

This is a new one on me. I know people love their pig. Give them bacon, pork chops, sausage and bellies but I didn't know pig feet were quite so beloved. But I know now. I did a piece on the wonderful Taste Harlem Food Tour for Relish Magazine and it came out last week. I wrote the article on the details of the three-hour, high energy tour which serves up heaping doses of Harlem food and culture in the form of soul food dishes, Dominican delicacies and Senegalese samplings. In between the food, owner Jackie Orange illustrates with historical tidbits and cultural facts. Well, the story was severely edited, focusing on Jackie's favorite Harlem food fact, which happens to be Pig Foot Mary.

A legendary Harlem figure, Pig Foot Mary's real name was Lillian Harris and she migrated from the Mississippi Delta to New York in 1901. She sold pig feet from an old baby buggy to Southern -born Harlemnites until she had acquired enough money to amass a fortune in New York and California real estate. By the time of her death in 1928, she had real estate holdings worth $375,000. It seems that that little mention has unleashed a longing for pig feet from all over the country. Jackie has been fielding calls from radio show hosts wanting to discuss the particulars of pig feet, people wanting to know how many pig feet dishes her tour features and Southerners wanting to know how different New York pig feet are from theirs. Now, Jackie is considering creating a tour specifically to serve this lust for pig feet. Who knew pig feet were so darn popular?

Arty New York

2010-08-05T19:05:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite things about New York city is the vibrant art scene. You don't even have to step foot into an art gallery, art surrounds you everywhere. I snapped these public art displays during my long strolls though Harlem. The first two murals were painted by school children and the next to last mural graces the subway. The stately bronze sculpture is of legendary freedom fighter Harriet Tubman, casting her protection over Harlem streets.

French Flavor in Harlem

2010-07-30T12:43:00.000-07:00

If there's any city that supplies international flair on every corner, it's New York. We arrived at our Harlem brownstone starved so we walked to the local cafe on the corner. We passed African women wrapped in vibrant Senegalese dresses, Mexican men selling tacos from a truck and Jamaicans peddling rasta hats and jewelry, only to arrive at a French bistro. Cafe Lucienne offers the perfect sidewalk views for bustling New York life as well as an inventive mix of French and American fare.

Okay, so gazpacho isn't so French but I love it and there's nothing better on a hot summer day. Cafe Lucienne's was bursting with fresh tomatoes and herbs.

My husband is the one who gets into French food and he wasted no time ordering the requisite escargot. I don't eat creepy crawlies no matter how they're served but he insisted that they were excellent.

He also dove into a pile of mussells, which is also something I don't go near. But they're pretty. The shells would make a great necklace.

I ordered these heaping turkey burger that I couldn't finish in one sitting. It came with hand cut fries that inspired both of us to munch non-stop.

Cafe Lucienne also features live singers on the weekends, which we listened to whenever we walked by. While we were there, we toasted our anniversary with German beer, Perrier and cranberry juice!

Next Stop: New York

2010-07-21T15:57:00.000-07:00

I'm headed to the Big Apple and will be exploring as much as I can for the rest of the week. I'll be celebrating our anniversary with my hubby, topped off with a Broadway visit to attend Fela! The Musical. (I have to stuff my dancing shoes into my carry on.) We'll also stop by the Statue of Liberty, catch Alvin Ailey Dance Theatre at Summerstage in Central Park, make our way to Brooklyn and indulge in the decadent Taste Harlem food tour one more time. Stay tuned for posts at the end of next week.

On Avoiding Airport Nightmares and Nastiness

2010-07-15T21:20:00.000-07:00

I'm not a neat freak on any level but I have a thing against nasty airport floors. You know, the ones that thousands of people slap with their sweaty feet while they're shuffling through security? I always, always, wear socks or stockings because I just can't bear to think about my feet connecting with what's on those floors. Now that it's summer, I'm amazed by the throngs of flip flop-clad flyers who think nothing about bare feet and frosty, dirty airports. I usually suffer though stockings with my ballet flats but I've discovered a much cuter solution. The folks at Kushyfoot sent me free samples of their extensive line of reflexology-infused travel foot wear and I'm happy to say that the foot covers are the solution to my airport fears. Thin, soft, nylon with heel guards and foot cushions cover the bottom of your foot without peeking out of your shoes. I slip through security without having to suffer thick socks, hose or who knows what kind of fungi.

Another travel aid that I appreciate that was sent my way for a tryout was MyTagalongs disposable underwear. Yes, that's right. I'm loving these throw away panties and keep them in my carry on at all times. Even though I always carry on my luggage, I've been in many tiny jets that are too small for carry ons and my luggage along with my change of clothes, gets separated from me. Yes, you can always wash out your underwear but it's just not as fresh as when they're machine laundered. For me, MyTagalongs provide me with some piece of mind whenever I'm going through typical airport-luggage nightmares. What are some of the things that help you make it through the airport process?

Shrimp Sense

2010-07-08T21:13:00.000-07:00

Amelia Island may be famous for its shrimp but I spotted a form of the pink delicacies that I was not expecting at all. I was strolling down the sunny, cobblestone streets on a historical tour when my guide stopped and plucked a curving, pink branch from the flowering bush above. "What does that look like to you?" My guide asked, showing me the blossoms close up. It looks like a shrimp! Hence the name shrimp plant. They grow all over the island and my guide insisted that they will grow just about anywhere. Well, not in Chicago, I informed him. Not enough sun. Two weeks ago, guess what I spied for sale in front of my local grocery store? It was a vividly blooming, potted shrimp plant. In Chicago. I've never seen them here before and don't know how long they'll last but it just goes to show that sometimes things don't always make sense but it doesn't mean they can't happen.

Horseback Riding with Honey

2010-06-29T13:25:00.000-07:00

I love horses. One of my favorite activities wherever I travel is to go horseback riding. There's nothing like exploring a place on horseback, grabbing a totally different perspective. Sometimes, the horses don't always love me back. I've ridden bossy horses that refuse to move. Hungry horses that insist on snacking on nearby bushes instead of galloping and nervous horses that spook if I dare to hold their reins a tad too tight. So when arrangements for my horseback ride on Amelia Island were planned, I requested a friendly, gentle horse. Those qualities can be relative but with Debbie Manser, owner of Amelia Island Horseback Riding, I was well taken care of. She paired me with Honey, shown above. I've never met an animal that personified their name quite so perfectly as sweet-natured Honey.

We rode along a luminous stretch of American Beach just as the sun was about to set.

Debbie guided Honey along the shore and even in the water's edge. Honey trotted slowly and galloped carefully, according to what she sensed that I needed. I took in the beauty of the dunes and the lapping waves without a worry.

Debbie takes in rescue horses and expertly trains them so that they respond to every command. As you can see, Honey even poses for photos! It was the most beautiful and pleasant horseback riding adventure that I've ever experienced. After the sunset, I gave Honey a treat, which she gobbled eagerly, almost as eagerly as I'll be heading back to Amelia Island.

Garifuna Flava

2010-06-25T17:08:00.000-07:00

If you've ever traveled to Belize, you may have glimpsed the richness of Garifuna Culture. The Garifuna, sometimes called Black Caribs, are of mixed African. Arawak and Carib ancestry and live primarily along the Caribbean coast of Belize, Honduras and Guatemala. The Diaspora community also gathers in major American cities and Chicago is fortunate to be one of them. I have many Belizian friends and have always enjoyed spicy Belizian food but I never experienced the full gamut of Garifuna specialties until I visited Garifuna Flava, a wonderful restaurant on Chicago's South Side.

I could live on the crispy, golden goodness of panades, deep fried mini empanadas stuffed with fish, all by themselves. They are served with varying levels of scorching hot sauce but they really are flavorful enough without it. Garnaches are another popular appetizer. They're thin tostadas topped with re fried beans, cheddar cheese and ketchup that I've never developed a taste for, mainly because I'm too busy gobbling panades. Like the people, Garifuna cuisine mixes Latin, Amerindian and African influences. The hudut, which is an important staple of mashed plantains that accompany the intriguing variety of stews, is similar to the West African fufu as well as the Puerto Rican mofongo. Hussein, one of the gregarious owners, guides newcomers through the menu as well as the culture. Reggae, Punta Rock and Garifuna rhythms by Andy Palacio floats through the eatery as heaping platters of food arrive.

Of course, I had to have the red snapper, served with rice and pea, plantains and ducunu, a freshly grated corn pudding served in the corn husk. Other delights include darasa another popular staple made from mashed green plantains, stewed pigtails and a spicy tomato-based sauce, oxtail stew, steamed king fish and conch fritters. There's a full bar supplying tropical drinks and more excuses never to leave the place. If you never make it to Belize, I think Garifuna Flava serves up an authentic cultural excursion.

Hang Gliding Over Lookout Mountain

2010-06-19T15:51:00.000-07:00

I like adventure. There's something about pushing yourself past the familiar and grabbing a new experience that always excites me. So when offered the chance to fly over Tennessee and Georgia, from the stunning Lookout Mountain, I literally jumped at the opportunity. I toured Chattanooga, Tennessee on a sponsored press trip and nothing will stick in my memory like hang gliding. A lot of people assume that's it's a frightening experience but I frankly am more afraid flying inside of an airplane. I felt no abrupt stomach drop, no heart palpitations, just the breezy sensation of flying through the air. As I blew over trees and pastures with my instructor Eric ,I felt like I was riding a kite. It was fun and intoxicating. What travel adventure will you always remember?

A Fauna Fountain

2010-06-15T21:23:00.000-07:00

I've seen a lot of things during my travels but I've never seen a fountain like this. It stands in a sunny corner of historic Fernandina Beach and it looks like a creative art installation. I stared at it for a long time, trying to discover exactly what its for. Washing dishes? Splashing nearby plants? Look closely. There's a tiny fountain at the bottom, a huge fountain at the right and a normal sized fountain on the left. What in the world do you do with all of them? Turns out that this is the Duryee Fountain, built in the 1870s, by the wife of an army officer. She loved animals, perhaps a little bit more than humans so she commissioned this fountain to give water to horses, cats and dogs and humans! Now what did you think it was for?

Pirates, Palm Trees and Shark Teeth

2010-06-08T12:59:00.000-07:00

Amelia Island is a magical place. Not just because of the sun-drenched cobble stone streets, the Victorian architecture or its long stretch of pristine beaches. Its the people, as warm as the Florida weather that makes it irresistible. Apparently, I'm not the only one attracted to this little island. Pirates loved to hide out on Amelia Island during the 17th and 18th centuries. Throughout the Fernandina Beach historic district, you'll find homages to these characters like the waterfront statue above.

And this life-like specimen that guards a local shop.

Palm trees also line every street and strip of land, just so you remember you're on an island. These are my favorite, called pineapple palms because of the texture of the bark.

Palm trees often supply the only shade on a sunny street, making them practical as well as pretty.

Apparently, Amelia Island beaches are studded with millions-year-old sharks teeth. I only found pretty shells but signs like the one above hang everywhere. Small maps, outlining the shape and names of the different shark teeth are routinely handed out at hotels. When I began a tour of historic Fernandina Beach, I was greeted by the guide not with a handshake but a hand full of shark teeth! I keep them with my other beach treasures, to remind me of Amelia Island's special qualities.

Shrimp Charades

2010-06-03T13:28:00.000-07:00

Amelia Island's main town of Fernandina Beach is lined with sprawling Victorian houses, palm trees, cobblestone streets and, shrimp. That's right. Amelia Island is famous for creating the modern shrimping industry in 1900 and its annual Shrimp Festival attracts thousands to the tiny isle. So yes, shrimp makes up a significant part of Amelia Island's identity. Throughout Fernandina, whimsical shrimp sculptures dot the lush landscape. The structures help raise funds for Mica's Place, a local domestic violence intervention center. I loved spotting these silly creatures wherever I journeyed on the island, they each display a particular personality. The mosaic shrimp above is called Cool, Coastal, Captivating Cutie and she lounges in the park in the Fernandina Historic District.

This is Rock Shrimp and he's my favorite. It helps that he hangs out right by the local ice cream and fudge shop but I love him for his rock star style.

The name of this sculpture is Fernandina Shrimp O'Maze and she shows various Fernandina landmarks all over her body.

Brandishing a cutlass and a moustache, this shrimp made me laugh the most. His name is Jack Parrow-Prawn and he sports fierce guy liner!

It's hard to outdo sparkles. This shrimp is called Jewels and she shines outside the door of a local jewelry store.

Overlooking Fernandina Beach harbor, on the porch of Brett's Waterway Cafe, perches Ariel, Shrimp a la primavera extraordinaire. Her name is a little much for me but her mermaid theme is very cute. Which shrimp is your favorite?

American Beach

2010-05-31T07:35:00.000-07:00

Located on northeast Florida's Amelia Island, American Beach is a dreamy stretch of 200 acres that was established as a beach resort for African Americans in 1933, during the Jim Crow era when most beaches were segregated. American Beach remains an undeveloped historical gem, brimming with cultural history. The very first thing that caught my eye on the beach was the bottle tree above, glistening between two palms.

Bottle trees are a hallmark of Southern gardens but the tradition reaches back further, centuries ago in the Central African nation of the Congo. Bottles were slipped onto tree branches to catch spirits trying to enter a house. This tree shows the customary sea green and "haint blue" bottles that whistle like captured ghosts when the wind blows.

The other thing that immediately grabbed my attention was this swirling 60 feet sand dune called Nana, a West African term for great mother. Nana is the tallest sand dune in the state of Florida and is protected as the state's last undeveloped dune system.

Unlike most resort towns, American Beach displays a charming, uncommercialized impression. The pearly-sand beach is pristine and quiet and the streets are unpaved and lined with palm trees, flowers and wild garlic, pictured above.

Historical houses that in American Beach's heyday, hosted luminaries like Zora Neale Huston, Joe Louis, Ossie Davis and Mary McLeod Bethune are another hallmark. This notable house above is constructed of coquina, a substance made from the crushed shells on the beach mixed with concrete.

Newer houses like this one, built in 2004 and called Turtle Dreams because of the turtle theme in every room, are being constructed as weekend getaways for families who continue American Beach's legacy as as a welcoming beach community steeped in culture and tradition.

Escaped Turtle Stew

2010-05-25T20:49:00.000-07:00

This is the turtle that ambled in front of me as I started a tour of historic American Beach on Amelia Island.

He crossed Ocean Blvd casually and confidently, as if he wanted to be part of the tour too.

But he got spooked when I moved close to snap his photo. Or maybe he heard my tour guide, Marsha Phelts explain that the only reason he was so big was that the women who live on Ocean Blvd are too old to catch him and make turtle stew!

Next Stop : Amelia Island

2010-05-17T17:28:00.000-07:00

This week, I'll be on a press trip to Amelia Island, one of the southernmost of the Sea Islands, located off the coast of Florida. Steeped in history, this 13-mile island is also called the "Isle of Eight Flags" since it has flown the flags of France, Spain (twice), Great Britain, the Patriots of Amelia Island, the Green Cross of Florida, Mexico, the Confederate States of America and the United States, since 1562. I'll be staying in a charming inn on Fernandina Beach, pictured above, complete with rocking chairs to watch the blue herons. My activities will include delving into all that intriguing history as well as horseback riding on the beach, a segway tour of the Amelia Island Plantation nature center and a walking tour of American Beach, a storied African American enclave frequented by legends like Zora Neale Hurston, A. Phillip Randolph and Joe Louis during the Jim crow era of the 30s-60s. Of course, I hope to sneak in some beach time too. Stay tuned for posts next week.

Savoring St. Thomas

2010-05-14T21:50:00.000-07:00

If you crave local creole cooking in St. Thomas, two names will always come up. Cuzzin's and Gladys' Cafe are the two eateries that specialize in spicy and hearty Caribbean cuisine. Located in a former 18th century stable on bustling Back Street, Cuzzin's attracts lots of travelers. Frothy drinks like the Green Iguana above, cater to touristy tastes but locals go for Virgin Islands home cooking like island style mutton, conch and curried anything.

Saltfish happens to be my favorite so I ordered this overflowing platter of it slathered with peppers, dumplings, plantains and cassava.

Cuzzin's is an intimate spot accented with vivid tablecloths and brick walls.

The dancing lady logo on the Cuzzin's signs always looks to me like she's trying to shake off all the food she's just inhaled.

Gladys' Cafe is ensconced in a lovely stonework courtyard, inside of what used to be a 17th century pump house. The menu above, features a host of Caribbean favorites like roti, conch chowder and curried goat, as well as dishes that I've never seen, like jerked pork chops.

I sampled the curried chicken with rice and peas, macaroni pie and more cassava. You can't avoid starch overload on most islands so I just pretend that there's a vegetable or two on my plate and go for a long walk later.

Gladys' is bigger than Cuzzin's, with checked tablecloths and the gregarious Gladys, who actually hails from Antigua.

Hot sauce is Gladys' real claim to fame, she makes a mustard version and a tomato based selection that's super hot. There's a rivalry between these two St. Thomas spots, some say that Cuzzin's is more authentic and that Gladys' focuses too much on tourists and vice versa. Personally, I prefer Cuzzin's food and Gladys' ambiance. I think both restaurant's offer important elements to the St. Thomas experience.

Kiss The Sky

2010-05-09T17:38:00.000-07:00

This is the view from the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere. I peeked out on the 110th floor and yes, I felt dizzy. Willis Tower or Sears Tower, as it will always be known to Chicagoans, soars 1,450 feet high and offers the perfect view of Chicago's iconic sky line. The skyscraper also supplies a stunning panorama of four states-Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Wisconsin. I typically visit Sears Tower every year for a leisurely Easter brunch with my family and never really contemplate just how high up we are (except when my ears pop in the elevator.) But this year, I was faced with the eye-popping reality when my husband and kids rushed out to the new Skydeck Ledge. The Ledge consists of glass boxes that extend out 4.3 feet from the Skydeck on the 103rd floor. You can gaze down at your feet and see the entire city. I passed on this opportunity and do not regret it one bit. I think I prefer my views more conventional and a little less scary.

Hassel Island Clean Up

2010-05-04T09:54:00.000-07:00

Most of my time in St. Thomas was spent on eco excursions and the first was to historic Hassel Island. From the lovely Frenchtown Harbor pictured above, I kayaked with my trusty St. Thomas expert Karen, to Hassel Island.

Now a part of the Virgin Islands National Parks, Hassel Island was originally a peninsula with a narrow isthmus between it and Frenchtown. The St. Thomas Harbour formed on the west by Hassel Island, was the major entry point for vessels sailing the Caribbean. There was once a coaling station for ships to refuel and a marine railway. Today, Hassel Island is a picturesque strip lined with crumbling 17th century forts and because of its tradewind heavy location, lots and lots of trash.

Our group of 10 volunteers spent an hour picking up the bottles, cans,straws and cigarettes that wash up on the island's shore. The sun blazes down on the sand and there's little shade. It was definitely a task of eco love made more lively by the talents of our guide Frank.

A self-taught harmonica player who ripped out hearty blues tunes, Frank knew just the right accompaniment for toiling under the sun.

A Hot Crustacean Band

2010-04-29T15:49:00.000-07:00

My daughter is blasting the Little Mermaid soundtrack and I'm reminded how much I love Sebastian, the wise, funny, very Caribbean crab. Watching the video, I realize what amuses me so much about Sebastian and his underwater world is that he actually reminds me of people I know and places I've been. I've met a lot of bossy characters in seemingly mythical countries in my travels. Eventhough it's just a cartoon, art really does imitate life in a lot of ways. It also doesn't hurt that the steel pan rhythm is hot. Check it out:

A St.Thomas Grassroots Gathering

2010-04-25T20:51:00.000-07:00

I've heard of bake sales, I've heard of formal dinners but I had never heard of food sales for political candidates. That's until I dropped by a St. Thomas food sale for the campaign of U.S. Virgin Islands Governor John deJongh.

My St. Thomas expert Karen, invited me to the grassroots event, which was held in a parking lot. Caribbean dishes like curried chicken and goat, rice and peas, grilled fish and fungi, the Virgin Islands staple of corn meal and okra.

deJongh, above, really grabbed an early start for the November elections but you can never start too early when it comes to fundraising. The place was packed with hundreds of voters buying food and shaking the Governor's hand. I think holding food sales for political candidates is an interesting St. Thomas custom. Don't think it would work in Chicago, though. Have you discovered any unexpected customs on your travels?

King Sunny Ade and The African Beats (Ibae' Baye' T'Oru'n)

2010-04-21T07:18:00.000-07:00

Every spring or summer, I attend a raucous Nigerian party with non-stop music. People come dressed in eye-popping fashions and dance for three-four hours straight. Every year, I look forward to this party, also called a King Sunny Ade concert.

A typical Sunny Ade concert lasts at least four hours and that’s only if there are parameters like say, the venue has to close. The Minister of Enjoyment, The Chairman, The King of Juju, are titles that Ade has earned for performing blistering sets of the complex, interlocking, guitar and percussion rhythms known as juju. Juju music is rooted in the Yoruba tradition of broad cultural and social commentary. Just one of Ade’s tunes, fortified with a band, The African Beats, of up to 30 members, lasts an average of 40 minutes. It’s the ultimate jam style that has influenced not only countless African musicians but Americans like Phish’s Trey Anastasio as well. A Sunny Ade show pulls out all aspects of Nigerian culture; from fans draped in glittering agbadas, dancing all over the stage and in the stands, eager "spraying" (literally covering the band with money) and an all out fun time.

It has just been announced that King Sunny Ade has cancelled his North American tour. Sadly, two members of his African Beats, Gabriel Ayanniyi (talking drum) and Omo Olope (percussion) were killed in a car accident while on there way to a video shoot. I wish their families condolences, ibae' baye' t'oru'n (Rest In Peace).

Check out this video from a Sunny Ade concert at the Montreal Jazz Fest for a taste of the party:

99 Steps

2010-04-16T14:16:00.000-07:00

While you're at Wyndham Sugar Bay Resort in St. Thomas, there's one comment that you're bound to hear. It's not, "what stunning views this mountain top hotel has!" Or " that beach really has a lot of fish." No. What you will hear in the lobby, in the restaurants or at the pool is "I can't believe you have to walk up all those steps just to get to the pool!" This irritated me to no end because it seems to me that if you're going to loll around the pool all day, a little step climbing isn't going to kill you. Granted, as you can see from these pix, that staircase wasn't some little 10-12 step number.

This is a real, winding, staircase with 99 steps and you will work your thigh muscles climbing it. But if you're not elderly or disabled, I don't see what the fuss is about. After all, just a few minutes clopping downs those stairs will get you

This.

And this.
Nonetheless, the majority of the resort's visitors opted to wait for the shuttle to drop them off at the edge of the pool, lest they have to move around too much. There's nothing that irks me more than complaining tourists. I just feel like they should leave the negative opinions at home and concentrate on enjoying their travels. What's your traveling pet peeve?

St Peter Great House and Botanical Gardens

2010-04-13T10:10:00.000-07:00

I love flowers and plants so I'm a sucker for botanical gardens. In St. Thomas, the botanical gardens are located on 11 lush acres along volcanic peaks 1,000 feet above sea level on Hull Bay. Perched on a mountain on the northern rim of the island. St. Peters Great House and Botanical Gardens was an 150-acre plantation in the 1800s. More recently, it was owned by the governor of the Virgin Islands. You can see examples of the antique furniture that fills the sprawling estate above.

This s-shaped loveseat was my favorite piece of old-school living. I can imagine a courting couple sitting demurely in it while a chaperone watches closely to see that no body parts touch.

The gardens boast 17 varieties of orchids and 150 species of Caribbean plants.

A self-guided nature trail allows you to stroll through and for awhile, be surrounded by your private Garden of Eden.

This parrot flower with its bold crimson leaves edged in yellow, was my favorite. They really do look like little parrots when you stop back.

This tree towered over the gardens and looks like it grows specifically to grace a postcard or t-shirt.

The one thing that bothered me about the botanical gardens were the caged birds arranged throughout. According to the staff, they are never let out of their cages, which seems cruel. Sandy, above, is a vibrant macaw that squawked loudly and constantly while I was there. She sounded like she wanted to get out of her cage, at least for a little while.

St. Thomas Vistas

2010-04-10T09:33:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the time between posts, I've been sick for a week and I'm counting on these sunshiny pix to drive my cold away. St. Thomas offers lovely views, especially at high points around the island.

I snapped these from the observation deck of the Botanical Gardens. In the distance, you can see the neighboring islands of St. John and Tortola, which is part of the British Virgin Islands.

I love that the sea looks so blue that it resembles a fabulous oil painting instead of reality. Have you seen any great views lately?