Diablico Sucio in Casco Viejo

The Panama Canal may be the most famous structure in Panama but the notorious Diablico Sucio represents the most familiar cultural figure. The name translates to dirty devil and I met this character when I visited Casco Viejo, the old colonial section of Panama City. Diablico Sucio also dates back to colonial times, when villagers, especially from Los Santos, would construct a costume from a blanket painted with red and black stripes made with coal and annatto seeds. The dance connected with the character would make the dancers sweaty, blurring the coal and annotto so that it resembled dirt, hence the name. Diablico Sucio is associated with the religious feast of Corpus Christi. The dancers use elaborate footwork, castanets, bells and a walking stick to symbolize the vivid battle between good and evil. During carnaval, these devils roam the streets and whip revelers with the walking stick unless they pay them or carry their own walking stick for protection.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site,Casco Viejo is a lively area filled with 16th century buildings and lots of bars, cafes and restaurants. The diablico sucio stands outside of the traditional Panamanian restaurant, appropriately named, Diablicos. I didn't eat in the restaurant but I did stop to hug the colorful devil character. Luckily for me, he didn't have his stick for any impromptu whipping. I headed back to Westin Playa Bonita, which sponsored the Panamanian exploration, and relaxed in the chic confines of the Oasis Lounge. The dynamic sounds of cumbia and salsa transported me back to contemporary Panama, although I was still on the lookout for that diablo sucio and his stick..