Farsighted Fly Girl

Jamaica is filled with historic landmarks and memorials but one of the most meaningful Jamaican sites that I've visited is the final resting place of Nanny of the Maroons. She was an 18th century freedom fighter and brilliant military strategist who fought for independence from the British  High up in the Blue Mountains of Portland, Nanny Town was established as a settlement for Nanny and maroons, or Africans who escaped and fought against slavery  Dating from when a truce was signed with the British in 1739, Nanny Town has remained an independent community that retains the language and customs of  their Ghanaian ancestors. The current leader of  Nanny Town, Colonel Wallace Sterling guided my group to the enclosed park that houses Bump Grave.  I'll explore more about Nanny Town and its history in another post. The Jamaican government erected a monument to recognize Nanny's resting place and it overlooks the dense mountains of Portland, symbolizing the freedo...

Enveloped in 11 acres of lush gardens and courtyards, in the heart of Kingston, Devon House   represents Jamaica's proud heritage. Constructed in 1891 by Jamaica's first black millionaire, George Stiebel, the Georgian-Jamaican architecture reflects both British and Caribbean influences. Stiebel made his fortune from Venezuela gold mines and many of the accessories of his luxurious Victorian era life still fill the mansion, including Italian chandeliers oil paintings and carved mahogany beds. Devon House was declared a National Heritage Site in 1990 and strolling the halls supply a fascinating glimpse into a rarefied life during Jamaica's colonial times. Although the landmark is one of Kingston's most popular destinations, many visit just for the famous Devon House I-Scream, which is considered the best on the island. There are actually lots of restaurants, cafes and boutiques on the property, which I'll cover in another post but my favorite part of Devon Hous...

I never get tired of traveling to Jamaica but I'm especially excited about visiting a parish I've never experienced: Port Antonio in the Northeastern parish of Portland. Noted for bamboo rafting down the Rio Grande, this rustic transport was once used to ship bananas. The whole process was made famous by Harry Belafonte's  classic 'Day O" tune and I can't wait to see the Rio Grande as well as the rest of the lush region. A highlight of my trip will be a visit to Moore Town, more widely known as Nanny Town, the settlement founded by enslaved Africans called maroons, who fought off the British and lived in the mountains in independent communities. Nanny was the female warrior who led the Portland maroons with highly developed ambush techniques and won a peace treaty from the British in 1739 for tax free lands. Nanny is the only female Jamaican national hero and I am thrilled to visit her second settlement (the original was up in the Blue Mountains) and meet h...

Watching the Jamaican Bobsled Team at the Sochi 2014 Olympics conjures up memories of the classic '90s movie, Cool Runnings for a lot of people. Based on the storied 1988 Jamaican Bobsled Team that managed to capture global attention, you can't make up a crazier  and more inspiring tale. Seeing the two-man team reminded me of my own precarious bobsled run down Mystic Mountain in Ocho Rios, Jamaica. Tucked into the lush rain forest, the Bobsled at Mystic Mountain  captures stunning tropical vistas as well as the nerve-jangling bobsled experience. An exhibit with the famous Jamaican bobsled uniform and stats on the original team's history fill a corner before you arrive at the bobsled. Before hopping on, I was greeted with the ominous sign above. There seemed to be lots of conditions and precautions for what I thought was a straightforward ride. Turns out that the bobsleds are actually a sports installation, developed to operate like a real bobsled. That means ...

It has been 40 years since the quintessential reggae band Third World, graced the globe with its smooth and spirited rhythms. Debuting  live as the opening act on Bob Marley's 1974 European tour, they have maintained an international presence ever since. One of the most enduring and popular reggae acts in the world, they spread the music as Jamaica's official reggae ambassadors. A genre-defining musical mix of cultural lyrics and contagious melodies laced with funk and soul,  the Third World sound was personified by Bunny Rug's rich and commanding vocals. I have been very lucky to have experienced the magic of Third World many times, the most recent at Jamaica's Jazz and Blues Fest last year. A third World concert always features thrilling musicianship and lots of  high energy. I watched as Bunny, also known as William Clarke, pushed the dancing crowd into a frenzy, belting out hits like "Try Jah Love," "Reggae Ambassador" and "1865 (96 deg...

This is very serious business. Like Democrat or Republican, White Sox or Cubs, Stones or Beatles,  choosing your favorite Jamaican pattie helps determine your direction in life. Patties are such an integral part of Jamaican culture that everyone nibbles an a version of the savory stuffed pastries at one time or the other. I journeyed through the north coast of the island to document the rivalry between the two most popular pattie companies and uncover the best pattie. If you ask a Jamaican about their favorite pattie, you will get one of two answers: Tastee or Juici. So what's the difference? Juici is supposed to offer more varieties, Tastee, more flavor. So I investigated (in a highly scientific sampling). Around Montego Bay, Tastee seemed to be the clear favorite, boasting more stores and longer lines. In Ocho Rios, Juici earned more visibility and outlets. Although the classic pattie is stuffed simply with seasoned beef, I saw a myriad of non-traditi...

Ackee is the Jamaican national fruit and I love it so much that I ate it everyday while I was on the island. An exotic fruit that's cooked as a vegetable, ackee is indigenous to West Africa and has been a staple in the Jamaican diet since the 18th century. The trees bear clusters of red fruit that burst open when ripe. The ackee fruit features soft yellow flesh that resembles scrambled eggs and shiny black seeds. By itself, ackee has a rather bland flavor but when it is paired with saltfish, it's transformed into the Jamaican national dish, full of savory deliciousness. Ackee and saltfish is traditionally served as breakfast but it can also appear as an entree anytime of the day. I started my day with a heaping plate of ackee and saltfish, accompanied by festival, fried dough that soaks up the flavor and makes the meal that much more tasty. Every morning, I sat on the veranda of my villa, gorging on ackee and saltfish and sipping fresh Jamaican ginger tea. I savor...

Jamaica is a beautiful country on many levels. The landscape is gorgeous, the people are warm and the culture is rich. That's a lot to take in so you need to be fortified. As soon as my plane landed in Montego Bay, I headed to the little thatched roof bar right outside the airport. Lots of visitors figure that a rum drink is in order but that's only if you don't know any better. Knowledgeable travelers are aware of the requirements and that is that you must eat a patty as soon as you enter Jamaica. Patties are baked pastries filled with spicy beef, chicken or vegetables and they are the official Jamaican snack. You must sink your teeth into one of these crusty delights before you'll even begin to be prepared for the experience called Jamaica. Washing it down with cool June plum juice or jelly coconut water is also a good idea but not a necessity. I savored the last crumbs of my patty as classic rock steady tunes played in the background and I felt a connection to ...

I'm headed to the land of wood and water, otherwise known as Jamaica, this week for the Jamaica Jazz & Blues Festival in Montego Bay. Jamaica is one of my favorite islands, the beauty and the culture are unparalleled. Besides soaking up some wonderful reggae music at the fest  by roots legends like Third World, Ken Boothe and Cocoa Tea, I'll be volunteering at a school, checking out a Rastafarian village, visiting Ocho Rios and the Mystic Mountain rainforest bobsled and maybe lolling on a beach or two. Stay tuned for posts about all of these experiences as well as details about classic Jamaican cuisine. Until then, I'll send some Jamaican vibes and sun out to everyone!